Kevan, the proprietor of Phu Lang Ka Lodge, is an extraordinary man. As the elected president of the Yao (Mien) people of Thailand, Kevan and his wife, Nong are very active in the community and play an instrumental role in the preservation of Yao culture and heritage. The Yao originate from the highlands of Southern China - over the years they have migrated and established communities over most of Southeast Asia. Numbering approximately 50,000 in Thailand, the Yao (Mien) people live for the most part in the northern provinces of Nan and Phayao and are one of the most successful and well educated of all the hilltribe groups.

Kevan is also the director of Ban Mai Pang Ka, a small community school that is funded by the government, at the nearby district of Pong. The school has about 320 students (ages 4-16) and is attended primarily by Hmong and Yao children from the surrounding villages. While most of the kids take public transportation to the school, about 70 children live at the school during the week - on a room and board basis - to return home on the weekends to be with their parents. About 65% of the children are Hmong and 30% are Yao. For the schoolchildren, the education is free and the Government pays for the salary of Kevan and his staff of 19 teachers.

Kevan and his staff organized a very impressive 2 day tribute, this past November to the recently deceased Princess Galyani, the king’s elder sister. On Thursday, November 20, there were ceremonial marches by the school children; then on Friday, both the principal hilltribe groups in the area - the Hmong and the Yao - staged their own separate tribute for the belated Princess, who during her lifetime had contributed much of her time and energies towards the improvement and welfare of Thailand’s hilltribes. Yao dignitaries from Oregon (USA) - friends of Kevan and Nong - showed up to pay their respects as well. Very well done, Kevan!

More on this Special Tribute in a subsequent post

The small nature lodge at Phu Lang Ka is a family affair - Kevan’s two daughters, Irene and Nissana and his son, Sattapat help him out with the responsibilities of running the lodge. He and his lovely wife, Nong maintain a beautiful home in Chiang Kham, a small city located about 33 KM away from Phu Lang Ka.

One of the most incredible views in Thailand is at Phu Lang Ka, a small lodge in the mountains of Phayao Province in Northern Thailand. Located about 33KM east of Chiang Kham, Phu Lang Ka is situated on a ridge about 850 meters (2800 feet) above sea level and overlooks a broad valley by the same name. During the early morning hours, a thick mist often blankets the valley; eerily protruding through the mist are a couple of limestone outcrops. The mood changes as the mist dissipates by late morning revealing the green valley – largely cultivated for agriculture - below. Just beyond the valley to the east is the San Pan Nam Mountain Range, beyond that Laos. On most mornings , you’ll be able to witness some dramatic and colorful sunrises. During the evening hours, looking across the valley in the darkness, you will see the twinkling of lights emanating from the small houses in the village below.

There is something very mystical and spiritual about Phu Lang Ka; it’s such a peaceful and serene setting, a perfect place to relax and meditate. I had the opportunity to stay at Phu Lang Ka this past November - to me it was such a welcome change of pace from the madness and hustle bustle of Bangkok. While I was there, a group of students from the nearby University at Phayao arrived on the weekend, occupying a house just down the road from the lodge. With their sound system blaring into the wee hours of the morning, I felt that the peace and quiet of Phu Lang Ka was violated. Upon waking shortly before sunrise, I walked down to the house and motioned with my hands for them to turn the music volume lower. I think they got the message as they pulled the plug!

Owned by a very prominent Yao family, Phu Lang Ka has 10 very small and simple bungalows available. Constructed mostly of bamboo and tin, most of the bungalows have a small outdoor sitting area which looks directly onto the valley. The place is very popular with Thai people (especially the university crowd) on weekends during the dry season. Cost is 500 Baht per night. Meals are at additional expense - very cheap though.

The owners - Kevan and his wife Nong (and his two daughters) - are very warm and hospitable people. Kevan is a very important person in YAO society - he currently is the President of the Yao people of Thailand and oversees a community school for Hmong and Yao children at the nearby village of Pong. Despite his prominence, Kevan remains a very humble man.

On New Years Day, I lie in bed reflecting on the past year in the life a traveler. In light of the global recession and economic downturn, 2008 was a very rough year for many people including your truly. There were far less travelers taking to the seas and the skies than in years gone by, and trips were a lot shorter in duration and closer to home.
But for this traveler, hard times wasn’t able to keep me grounded as exploring the world and traveling is what keeps me alive and defines me as a person - I AM A TRAVELER. That is MY LIFE and what I lack in monetary wealth, I make up in the richness and experience that travel brings.

In 2008, I consider myself fortunate to have made two trips....

In April, I returned to La Manzanilla aka My Secret Paradise on Mexico’s Costa Alegre. A relatively small and unpretentious beach town located 1 hour north of Manzanillo, not much had changed from a year ago but the economic downturn in the USA and Canada resulted in far less visitors. Looking down the two mile beach, I observed that there were far fewer Mexican tourists in the area over the popular All Saints Holidays compared to last year. Most of the Gringos I met were either snowbirders (winter residents) or were scouting the area to buy some property or start construction on their new vacation home. As usual, I had a quiet relaxing time - in the mornings, I would blog at El Girasol Café over breakfast and in the afternoons, take a siesta or read a book on the beach.

On November 11, I took off to Thailand and Malaysia in Southeast Asia for one month. I had a wonderful experience overall - I visited many new places and met a lot of interesting people. I was on the go the whole time and did not have more than 3-4 days of downtime. I have so many outstanding memories from this trip, it would be so very difficult to discuss all of them at this time. But if I had to choose the most memorable experience from my recent trip, it had to be witnessing a special memorial tribute by the Yao and Hmong Hilltribes to the recently departed Princess Galyani, the revered older sister of The King of Thailand. This tribute was staged on November 24 at a small community school near the village of Pong in Phayao Province, Northern Thailand, more than one week after an extravagant 4 day national tribute was held in Bangkok. This had to be the most heartwarming experience that I’ve had as a traveler.

In a more humorous vein, I was attacked by an invisible bamboo while hiking in the rainforests of the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia. This encounter resulted in a very nasty gash on the top of my left hand. As the wound was infected, I went to the local hospital at Tanah Ratah the following day to have it cleaned out and stitched up. Presiding over the minor surgical procedure was a young man by the name of Mr. Amri, who I later learned was just a medical assistant. As he performed the operation, he gave sort of a running commentary of the procedure in Malay language to the four young female interns who were in the operating room. Looking at their dog tags, I discovered that they were all from the same college in Kuala Lumpur. In the meantime, I alternately winked, grimaced and smiled at the young ladies who didn’t really know what to make of this strange foreign patient. The WOUND STORY didn’t end right there, as I had to go to a local hospital in Bangkok at the tail end of my trip (Dec. 9-12) for three consecutive days to have the stitches taken out, the wound recleaned and dressed.

On the day I arrived home in San Francisco safe and sound (December 12), I went to my local Kaiser Medical clinic to have a Doctor look at the wound. When I showed her a digital picture of my hand after the surgery was performed in Malaysia, she shook her head in dismay and said “The good news is that the infection is contained and you will live to die another day, but because of the poor stitching job you’ll be left with a permanent albeit small scar/souvenir”. Upon hearing this, I laughed and said “No problem - I can add this new souvenir to the ones that I have already collected from Thailand and Costa Rica.”

Happy Trails Everyone. Have a healthy and prosperous New Year