On my most recent trip to Thailand, I explored Loei Province. Located in northeastern Thailand, Loei is relatively unknown to most western tourists (farangs) - definitely off the beaten path.

Bordered by the provinces of Udon Thani to the east, Phitsanulok to the west and Petchabun to the south, Loei is considered one of the most mountainous provinces of Thailand. It also has the reputation of having the coolest climate as well. The Mekong River flanks Loei province on its northern perimeter; across the river is the country of Laos.

Whenever I travel, I make a conscious effort to stay away from the most popular mainstream tourist places - Loei was my kind of place. During my eight days there, I visited three different places 1) Phu Ruea, a small mountain resort at about 4000 feet above sea level 2) Chiang Khan, a small and popular resort town situated on the banks of the Mekong River 3) Pak Chom, another small town on the Mekong River but a world apart from the somewhat touristy Chiang Khan.

First let’s take a look at Phu Ruea
This small mountain resort (and village) is located about 1 hour by bus from the city of Loei. Phi Ruea has many lodges and small resorts – most of them are located just off the highway. The nearby national park has many hiking trails and wonderful vistas.

Near the Phu Ruea summit – about 8 miles or so from the Park entrance and the highway - there is a large camping ground, which is especially popular with the younger crowd (35 or less). Thai campers traditionally travel in small groups by minibus, staying for one night at Phu Ruea before continuing to the next National Park in the circuit, usually Phu Kradung. On weekends and holidays, the campground is throbbing with activity.

During the early morning hours, most of the campers as well other travelers in the area congregate at the nearby Phu Ruea Peak, hoping to catch the sunrise. At the lookout point, there is a very distinctive gold Buddha surrounded by a white canopy

On the morning that I went to the summit, I met a group a group of young (and very cute) girls. They were all bundled up like Eskimos because of the relatively chilly climate and wearing their cutesy pullover animal hats. After chatting with them, I learned that they were university students from nearby Nong Khai province. Unfortunately on that morning, a thick fog enshrouded the summit and the valley below and we couldn’t see much of anything.

See Phu Ruea Photo Album
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Coming up: A study in contrasts – a look at Chiang Khan and Pak Chom , two Mekong River towns in Loei Province

I have traveled to some fairly obscure and off the beaten path places in Northern Thailand, none more so than Uttaradit. Unknown to most Westerners, Uttaradit is a very pleasant and laid-back city with a very rich and interesting history as well as many beautiful places in the countryside.

Spared from excesses of tourism, Uttaradit offers the visitor a genuine
opportunity to experience Thai life and culture. Because the tourism infrastructure is somewhat rudimentary, finding a knowledgeable tour guide who speaks decent English can be a real challenge, although recruiting a capable driver for touring is relatively easy.

Visiting Uttaradit for the first time, I had the manager of my hotel set me up with a driver so I could tour and explore the area at my leisure. While I was able to take in the “Highlights of Uttaradit”, my experience would have been 200% better if the driver had some facility with English. Needless to say, an English-speaking driver/tour guide is a real luxury in this region of Thailand.

Highlights included the very impressive Sirikit Dam and Reservoir (located about 1 hour outside the city), the largest earthen dam in Thailand as well as nearby Lab Lae, an historic village surrounded by gardens and temples – sort of a throwback to the Thailand of olden days. Entering Lab Lae District – only 7 Km from the city of Uttaradit - there is a beautiful golden archway above the road. The crafts complex and the local museum at Lab Lae were very well done, and the gals who worked there were gracious enough to pose for series of very unique pictures.

In addition to Sirikit Dam and Lab Lae, we also stopped at the Uttaradit Municipality Museum. Inside were many detailed and colorful paintings and murals which depicted Uttaradit during the 18th and early 19th century when the city was very important trading center and the site of many important battles between the Kingdom of Siam and the Burmese.

Standing in front of nearby city hall, is a very unique monument of Phraya Phichai , a fearless Siamese general from Uttaradit province who fought valiantly against the hated Burmese in latter half of the 18th century. Because of his heroic deeds in battle, he earned the nickname of the Thai Superman.