I always meet a lot of interesting people when I travel abroad – both fellow tourists and locals. Of all the people that I have met, there cannot be anyone more interesting than George Kemp, a remarkable 72-year-old Thai gentleman from Nan, a small city in Northern Thailand.

Actually George Kemp is not his real name but only a pseudonym that he uses when he is dealing with westerners. You’ll understand why he prefers to go by the name of George Kemp, when you discover that his real name in Thai is Akarintrara Adhidhebnarangkura – which is way too difficult for most us farangs to pronounce.

I met George as I was leaving Hot Bread Café in downtown Nan. He was sitting in his customized motor vehicle which looks like a cross between a motorized golf cart and a motorcycle. I had never really seen a vehicle like this before, but it serves George well as he is paralyzed from the waist down.

A big strapping fellow about 6 ft 2 inches tall, George does not look Thai nor does he look like a classical westerner. George’s bloodlines are mixed - his mother was Thai and his father was a white man from England. With Asian eyes, high cheekbones and otherwise Caucasian features, George has a very exotic look about him.

After shooting the breeze for about 10 minutes with George (he speaks excellent English by the way), he invited me to see his house just up the road. Now normally I don’t accept invitations from complete strangers but given the circumstances, I thought why not – I didn’t think a fellow like George had any bad intentions. So I hopped on my bicycle and followed him to his home, located only 2 kilometers from the cafe.

Upon reaching his sprawling country house, I was greeted by a chorus of barking dogs - mostly small Poodles, Shih-tzus, Lhasa Apsos. Most of the dogs were being housed in small cages in the back of the yard. George then introduced me to his wife and his extended family - a couple of young Thai girls (children of a good friend) who were living with him. As for the dogs, George’s wife is a professional dog groomer, and the caged dogs were waiting for their beauty treatment.

Talking about himself, I learned that George had a very distinguished career as a captain in the Thai police force in Bangkok during the 1960s - mid 1970’s where he worked primarily as a traffic cop. The highlight of his career came in the late 1960’s, when George made a special trip to Germany as an envoy of the Thai police force. This special mission led to the introduction of Traffic Lights to the busy streets of Bangkok.

Coming up - Learn how a tragic car accident completely changed the remarkable life of George Kemp

NAN is a special place. After a years absence, I revisited Nan this past November. I have been to so many cities in Thailand but none can compare to Nan in terms of its natural beauty and charm. I guess you could say that I love NAN - it is by far my favorite city in Thailand.

Located in Northern Thailand in the area known as the Golden Triangle, Nan is a small city of no more than 40,000 inhabitants. Lying in a valley surrounded by mountains, not too many travelers are aware of Nan as it is still somewhat off the beaten track.

The personality of NAN is shaped by the long and winding Nan River which cuts through the valley as it flows from north to south. East of the river is Laos. Nan’s indigenous culture is very strong and deeply rooted. The city is as old as the Sukhothai Kingdom and surrounding countryside is home to various hilltribe peoples – Yao, Hmong, Khamu and the very primitive Mlabri.

As I remarked in an earlier post, Nan – with its tree lined streets, rural country roads and old wooden houses - brought back memories of Turlock, a small sleepy river town located in California’s San Joaquin Valley circa the 1950’s. Riding a bicycle around NAN, along the river or into the surrounding countryside – so lush and green - is such a pleasurable experience.

So far Nan has been spared the ravages of mass tourism, but I see signs of more tourism development. A new first class hotel – the Nan Boutique Hotel – opened up not too long ago, and from what I understand there are plans for more hotels like this in the near future. Of course, several new upscale guesthouses have also appeared on the scene in the last year.

In addition - since my visit in November 2008, at least 3-4 fairly upscale coffee shops have opened their doors for business. This is usually an indicator that tourism on the rise. Walking around town, I definitely encountered more Thai tourists (and only a handful of farangs) - most of them were from Bangkok.

While I stayed at Nan Boutique Hotel this past November, there was a tour group from Bangkok who checked in on the same day as me. They occupied most of the hotel rooms, however they stayed there for only one night, which is somewhat typical of Thai tourists.

Nan would definitely benefit from an increase in Tourism but only if the development is carefully planned and controlled so as not to disrupt the lifestyle and traditional culture of the area.

With the cessation of direct air service from Bangkok on PB Air, Nan is still difficult to get to; however there is now direct air service from Chiang Mai on SGA airlines, albeit the planes are prop-jets. Still….

On my most recent trip to Thailand, Khun Moongmink - my friend from Bangkok - joined me on November 30, 2009 in the Northern city of Nan. For the next 10 days or so, she accompanied me as I showed her parts of Northern Thailand – Nan Province and Phu Lang Ka - that she was totally unfamiliar with. Having traveled to these “neck of the woods” the year before, I guess you could say that I – an outsider and a farang - was her tour guide.

In her story of meeting me in NAN, she affectionately refers to me as Papa Mono (the Big Monkey), my nickname in South America. Read on…

In late November, I went on a 10-day tour in the north of Thailand. The tour started in NAN, where I joined Papa Mono (aka Hanumann), my slightly crazed American friend who had arrived there several days before me. He enjoys visiting Thailand every year; I can say that he definitely knows my country better than me (and most other Thai people), especially when it come to the regional areas of the North.

I arrived at the Nan Bus Terminal late in the afternoon whereupon Papa Mono greeted me on his rented bicycle along with an old Thai guy standing beside his Samlor (tricycle taxi), ready to transfer me to my hotel. It ‘s nice to meet ”an old buddy” again – a tricycle which had long disappeared from Bangkok street for over twenty years.

Hopping into the Samlor, the driver followed Papa Mono as he rode joyfully on his bicycle. Acting as if he was a local tour guide, Papa Mono navigated through downtown Nan, greeting every street dog (maah) along the way, waving ’hi’ and causally chatting to many passersbys. Apart from his western look, one would probably think that my farang friend was a local Thai living there for many years.

I wish you could imagine this scene - a cheerful western guide, biking ahead of an old Samlor with a middle aged Thai lady as passenger. A native old man wearing khakis and a battered straw hat drives the Samlor loaded with heavy baggage. Using all his strength, the old man follows Papa Mono through the streets of Nan, as he diligently carries me to my hotel. Such memories are priceless!

Many Buddhist temples in Thailand are located either on a hilltop or the hillside of a mountain, and the views are often quite remarkable.

Wat Phra That Khao Noi, a hilltop temple in Nan in Northern Thailand, is no exception. Located a couple of kilometers southwest of town, the temple complex is not really special as it is relatively new, but the Statute of the Giant Buddha overlooking the town and Nan Valley is quite striking (and the panoramic views are of course wonderful).

The Buddha Statute reminds me in a way of the Christ the Redeemer (Statue of Jesus Christ), on top of the Sugar Loaf in Rio De Janeiro or the La Virgen de Quito at El Panecillo in Quito, Ecuador

The picture was taken shortly about 1 hour before sunset, and the rays of the sun give the Buddha a golden glow.

THAILAND UNDISCOVERED refers to the small, sleepy towns and villages (and out of the way places) in Thailand’s rural countryside. Far away from the craziness of Bangkok and the popular tourist meccas of Chiang Mai and Phuket, it is a side of Thailand that few tourists have visited. However this particular traveler prefers to travel off the beaten track - call me the intrepid traveler if you will!

On my most recent trip, I journeyed to Nan Province and the small mountain resort of Phu Lang Ka in Northern Thailand. Located in the northeastern half of the Golden Triangle, this region of Thailand is rich with history and natural beauty – from the mist covered valley at Phu Lang Ka to the unusual earth pillars at Sao Din in Nan Province. In addition, there a number of hilltribes that populate this rural region - from the Yao (Mien), Hmong and Khamu to the very primitive Mlabri, a nomadic forest tribe more commonly known as Spirits of the Yellow Leaf, found only in the mountains of Nan. Most importantly, this is part of Thailand which has yet to be overrun by the tourist crowd. It is truly Thailand undiscovered!

Want to learn more about Nan and Phu Lang Ka?
See my fascinating video (available in high definition)!

LOCATION - Located about 700Km from Bangkok, Nan is one of the most remote provinces in Northern Thailand. By bus, it takes 9 hours from Bangkok and 5 hours from Chiang Mai. The best way to get there is to fly on PB Air (there is service 4 times per week). The one-hour flight costs approximately 100USD

GUESTHOUSES - Many of the Europeans and American Tourists (as well as the backpacker crowd) stay at any number of guesthouses in the area. I booked in advance at SP Guesthouse, one of the newer Guesthouses in town. Located just ½ block from the main drag and about 300 meters from the Dhevaraj Hotel, my room was large and clean and came with a portable fan, mini fridge and small TV. Cost of the room was 400 baht (about $11.50USD) No complaints here! At the time I was there, (late November 2008), they were in the process of adding additional rooms. Yai, the manager at SP was quite a character. Of Indian extraction and a Hindi, Yai (in Thai, Yai means big) is originally from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. She relocated to Nan, Thailand sometime ago after meeting her husband there.

COFFEE SHOPS – Coffee shops (and cafés) are a popular gathering/meeting place for tourists. Nan is no exception - although there were no Starbucks in Nan (thank G_d), I counted three coffee shops. One is a small outdoors affair located next to the tourist center and across the street from the museum; the largest one is in the downtown area not far from the Dhevaraj Hotel, however the one I liked the best was around the corner from the bus terminal. Popular with the tourists and the young hip University crowd alike, the café (cannot remember the name) had a very warm and colorful décor. Owned by a young Thai couple, the guy was a bicycle enthusiast who also owned a large motorcoach which he used for transporting tour groups – mostly Thai Nationals and Chinese – from Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

THAI HIBACHI FACTORY - Most of the tours will take you to the kiln factory. Located on the outskirts of town, this is where they make portable Thai style hibachis - it is very labour intensive process as it takes about 1 month before the product is finished and ready to be sold. A lot of Thai people in the area use these portable stoves, as it is a very inexpensive alternative to a regular gas or electric stove.

MLABRI VILLAGE - A visit to a Mlabri village is one of the featured attractions of many of the day tours. The Mlabri, primitive hunters-gatherers, are mountain people - from what I have seen they are perhaps the poorest ethnic group in Thailand. The adults for the most part do not speak Thai, but the Thai government is making an effort to integrate the children into the modern world and Thai society. Mlabri children go to school with children from other hilltribe groups in the area, learning Thai language and ways of the west. I had the opportunity to meet the Mlabri chief of the village. A rather fit fellow – lean and mean - he was wearing just a simple loincloth to cover his genitals and nothing else. However, this is the traditional apparel of Mlabri men; in addition, men are encouraged to take more than one wife in Mlabri society. Before leaving the village, I made a donation of about 100 baht to the community.

Not too long ago, I had the opportunity to travel to Nan, a small, relatively obscure city located in the northeastern half of Thailand’s Golden Triangle. Lying in a valley surrounded by mountains, not too many travelers know about Nan as it is still off the beaten track. The rather long Nan River, which cuts through the valley as flows from the north to the south, is the city’s eastern perimeter. Further east is the country of Laos.

After a one-hour flight to Nan from Bangkok on PB Air, a regional carrier which services some of the smaller cities in Northern Thailand, I had chance to do a walking tour of town. A rather pleasant and quaint city with tree lined streets and rural country roads, Nan brought back memories of Turlock, a small sleepy river town located in California’s San Joaquin Valley that I last visited as a child in late 1950’s. Strange but true! According to the owner of the guesthouse where I stayed, there are about 50,000 people who live in the city of Nan. Although there are a couple of coffee shops - albeit no Starbucks – which cater to the tourist crowds, Nan seems to be relatively untainted by the excesses of Western Culture – there’s no McDonalds, KFC or the aforementioned Starbucks.

Nan has just handful of hotels and a somewhat greater number of guesthouses. The largest and most prestigious hotel (also the oldest) is the Dhevaraj Hotel. Located in the heart of the downtown area, the Dhevaraj is very popular with Thai tourists from Chiang Mai and Bangkok. Nightlife is very limited, although when I was there, the Dhevaraj had some live entertainment nightly. Nancy, a rather attractive 23-year-old lady who had recently graduated from a nearby University, was one of the featured female entertainers. Although she was also employed as a nurse in a local hospital, she moonlighted as a singer at the hotel. In addition to singing some of the more popular Thai love songs, Nancy also belted a pretty good version of San Francisco (Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair). For some reason, this song is very popular in Thailand!

Of course, like most cities in Thailand, Nan has its fare share of Buddhist temples (Wats) and shrines. There is also a fairly interesting regional museum located in Nan; unfortunately due to time constraints I didn’t have a chance to visit it. On my first day in town, I walked into Fhu Travel, the most reputable (and oldest) tour operator in the city and got set up with two all day excursions. Tour #1 was sort of a countryside nature tour by minibus which featured the bizarre Sao Din’s Earth pillars and some other scenic vistas. I had seen the earth pillars at Lalu in Sakaeo Province the year before so I wasn’t totally awestruck – in fact the earth pillars at Lalu were more impressive than the ones at Sao Din. At the end of tour, I had Nong (my tour guide extraordinaire) and Chaat (the driver), take me to the lookout point at Wat Prathat Chae Haeng, a venerable Buddhist Temple located on the outskirts of the city. Situated on a steep hill, the views of the city and the surrounding valley from this old temple are magnificent.

By car, Nan is about 4½ hours from Chiang Mai and about 8 hours from Bangkok. The most practical way to get there is to fly from Bangkok on PB Air like I did (1 hour flight), then take the bus or drive to Chiang Mai, with stops at the village of Phu Lang Ka and the city of Phayao. Plan to spend a minimum of week in the area!

It’s been a rocky start for CALYPSO ISLAND CHRONICLES in 2009. While I was on my 30-day odyssey to Thailand and Malaysia not too long ago, I discovered that Calypso Island Chronicles (and our associated website) had been hijacked by some nasty malware. This hijacking caused traffic numbers to our blog to drop significantly as many of our readers/visitors were unable to access our site and read our new material. Needless to say, this act of cybervandalism caused me a lot of aggravation and grief. Because of the hijacking, I decided to temporarily halt the blogging effort as of January 1st until the culprit was eradicated.

I can finally breathe a sigh of relief as it has been a couple of days that my webmaster – a young English bloke by the name of Paul who lives in the popular mountain resort of Pai in Northern Thailand - discovered a way to extricate the culprit (bug) from the site and banish it into the nether reaches of cyberspace. The details of this hijacking and how you can protect your website from being vandalized by this insidious type of malware will be treated in a subsequent blogpost. Now that CALYPSO ISLAND CHRONICLES has been debugged, we will commence our blogging effort on a variety of travel topics and issues. In particular, in the next couple of months we will feature many stories, anecdotes and memories from our recent excursion to THAILAND AND MALAYSIA. For a sneak preview of upcoming stories in CALYPSO ISLAND CHRONICLES, read on…

• A day at the Beauty Salon – how I was worked over by four ladies at my favorite beauty salon in Bangkok
• Excursion to the Moslem village of Nong Chok – interesting visit to a small rural Moslem community located just 70KM outside of Bangkok
• More Snippets from Bangkok – anecdotes, tips and random observations while stationed in Thailand’s fascinating capital city
• An eerie rendezvous with Mother Teresa, Ho Chi Minh and Mao Tse Tung – a visit to the Hall of Fame, the fascinating Wax museum at the Siam Cultural Center in Ratchaburi Province



• The Starbucks Index - the cultural impact of STARBUCKS in Thailand and Malaysia
• A pleasant Saturday excursion to the 100 Year Market – colorful outdoor Thai market, a popular weekend outing for Bangkokians
• THAIger very dangerous, eat money – a rollicking adventure in NAN in Northern Thailand featuring my amiable tour guides, Nong and Chaat
• Highlights of Nan – featuring the earth dunes of Sao Din, the Thai Hibachi factory and a visit to a Mlabri village, the most primitive and poorest hilltribe people in Thailand



• The Terracotta Lady – profile of the wonderful lady who owns Mae Pundin Guesthouse, an eclectic hostelry near Chiang Mai which features ceramic making and Thai Cooking classes
• The Plant Man – Profile of one of Thailand’s premier horticulturalists and owner of Udom Gardens and Nursery in Ratchaburi Province
• The View – commentary on the heavenly views at Phu Lang Ka, Phayao Province in Northern Thailand. Out of this world!
• Passport of Pan Hu and the Yao People – While I was Phu Lang Ka, I had the opportunity to learn about the origins and history of the Yao people



• Special Memorial Tribute to Princess Galyani by the Hmong and Yao people of Phu Lang Ka – One of the most heartwarming experiences that I have ever had as a traveler
• The ruination of MELAKA – how modern development threatens to destroy the old world colonial charm of this popular tourist town in Malaysia
• Snippets from Chiang Mai – includes a stroll through the famous night Bazaar, outrageous T-Shirts, a weird experience at Whole Earth Restaurant and more!
• Snippets from Cameron Highlands – random observations and tips about this popular hill resort in Malaysia including recommended places for dining



• Lulu, the best masseuse this side of Beijing – profile of a very talented lady in Cameron Highlands. I miss her magic touch
• The search for the legendary Jim Thompson - highlights of a most memorable all day tour in Cameron Highlands featuring a muddy 3 hour hike through the rainforest to the world’s largest flower
• Snippets from LANGKAWI – random observations and travel commentary on Malaysia’s most popular beach resort.
• Dine around Plan in Langkawi – A review of my favorite places for dining in this popular Malaysian beach resort
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Round about 12:00 midnight tonight, I will be flying to Bangkok, Thailand for the start of my 30 day Adventure to Southeast Asia – 18 nights in Thailand and 12 nights in Malaysia. This will be my eighth trip to the Kingdom of Siam (Thailand) and my very first time to Malaysia.

As usual I will spend the first 5 nights in Bangkok before I travel upcountry to explore some new places off the beaten track – this time around I will visit Nan and Phayao provinces in Northern Thailand’s Golden Triangle. The tourism infrastructure in these two provinces is fairly rudimentary and the volume of oversea tourists is a drop in the bucket right now; however in 10 years time, this relatively obscure region of rural Thailand will probably become a legitimate tourist trap as more and more tourists discover the area. From what I understand, the countryside is very beautiful here and there are a number of national parks in the general vicinity. I’m really looking forward to some R & R and some thoughtful introspection during my one week in the boonies of Nan and Phayao. Needless to say, I’m bringing lots of reading material.

Malaysia will be quite a unique experience for me as the culture in this Moslem state is 180 degrees different than other countries in this region. During my 12 days there, I will stay briefly in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s modern capital city before venturing out to the old colonial town of Melaka >(Malacca) about 2 hours south. From there I will head to the popular mountain resort of Cameron Highlands which is known for its miles of tea plantations and nearby woodland forests. as well as being the area where the legendary Jim Thompson vanished in thin air - this former World War II pilot from the United States resettled in Thailand shortly after the war and is credited as reviving Thai’s failing silk industry before his mysterious disappearance in the Cameron highlands. My last stop in Malaysia is the popular beach resort of Langkawi “The Cancun of Malaysia”. I understand that it is considerably less busy than Phuket, Thailand’s most popular resort area and the nightlife is quite limited, but I always create my own fun, so “No Worries!”

If you’d like to follow me on my 30 day adventure to Thailand and Malaysia, I suggest that you subscribe to my RSS feed.

Click here to see my whole itinerary!

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