Born in June 2005, the travel blog known as Calypso Island Chronicles has now reached the very significant plateau of 400 posts. In my book, that is a lot of writing. A variety of topics have been covered in our blog since its inception - from travel reviews and tips, nature tourism, travel anecdotes and commentary to a special plant-of-the week feature as well as some very humorous travel stories, and we have featured a variety of tropical destinations - Thailand, Costa Rica, Barbados, Peru, Mexico and West Africa. To commemorate this very auspicious achievement of our 400th post, I bring you the Best of Calypso Island Chronicles.

Turtle Watching in Costa Rica - a memorable nature story

The most bizarre landscape in Thailand – a journey to Lalu, the miniature Grand Canyon of Thailand

Abducted by rogue taxi in Mali - a frightening adventure in Africa

Thai dogs that I have known – profile of some of my favorite Thai dogs

Story of Sa, an orphan in Vientiane - profile of an orphan in Vientiane, Laos

Every day is Sunday in Vientiane - Travel Commentary

The abomination of Manuel Antonio - a warplane stirs up big controversy in a popular Costa Rican resort

Teatime in Thailand – History of Tea in Mae Salong, a small village located in the mountains of Northern Thailand

Butterfly Festival in Thailand – A look at the annual butterfly Festival in Sakaeo

Hike Barbados hike – a story about nature tourism in Barbados

A fishy tale about human sacrifice in Africa - Black humor

Fortune teller – a fortune teller in Bangkok predicts my future

Bosque de Paz – A review of my favorite nature lodge in Costa Rica

Phranakorn Nornlen hotel – Breath of fresh air in Bangkok

Every picture tells a story – the importance of photography in our travels

Mexican Sunflower – Plant of the week feature

With such great stories, insights and commentary in Calypso Island Chronicles,
I am waiting to be contacted by a major publishing company for a book contract. Any takers?

Have you ever totaled up the number of countries that you have visited in your lifetime? Furthermore, how many times have you traveled to each particular country? Breaking it down even further, what places/cities have you visited (with at least one overnight stay) in each destination/country? If you answer all these questions carefully, you’ll have put together your own TRAVELER’S RESUME.

Let’s start out with yours truly. My inaugural trip as a traveler happened in Dec. 1973 when I went to Mexico for 3 weeks. Over the ensuing 35 years, I have traveled to 25 different countries. If you look at my RESUME, you will see that I’m very partial to the tropics. Call me the tropical traveler if you may.

NORTH AMERICA:

• Mexico (18)

Puerto Vallarta (3), Mexico City (3), Guadalajara, Villahermosa, Merida,
Mexican Caribbean – Cancun (4), Playa del Carmen (2) and Tulum; Oaxaca (5),
Puerto Escondido (5), San Blas(2) Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo,
Baja California - Cabo San Lucas (4), La Paz and Loreto,
Costa Alegre - La Manzanilla (2) and Bahia de Navidad

CARIBBEAN:

• Jamaica (30+)

Kingston, Blue Mountains, Port Antonio, Montego Bay, Ocho Rios, Negril,
South Coast - Black River, Treasure Beach and Milk River Bath; Cockpit Country,
Mandeville and Christiana

• Barbados (6)
• St. Lucia (2)
• Antigua
• Dominican Republic

Santo Domingo and Sosua Beach

• Cuba

Havana and Varadero Beach

• St. Vincent
• Trinidad
• St. Maarten/St. Marten
• Bahamas

Nassau and Eleuthera

• Caribbean/Panama Canal Cruise

SOUTH AMERICA:

• Colombia

Bogota, Cartagena and San Andres Island

• Peru

Lima, Cusco, Sacred Valley including Machu Picchu, Amazon basin

• Ecuador

Quito, Otavalo and Mindo

CENTRAL AMERICA:

• Costa Rica (6)

San Jose (6), Heredia (2), Sarapiqui (2), Manuel Antonio (3), Dominical,
Pacific Lowlands – Carara ; Guanacaste – Canas and Palo Verdes NP (2), Tamarindo Beach (2), Ocotal and Los Innocentes; Jaco, Tortugero, Monteverde (2), Osa Peninsula, La Fortuna and Arenal (4),
Caribbean Coast- Cahuita (2) and Puerto Viejo; Wilson Botanical Gardens
(San Vito), San Gerardo de Dota and Nicoya Peninsula - Playa Samara

• Guatemala (2)

Guatemala City (2), Antigua (2) and Lake Atitlan

WEST AFRICA:

• Ghana

Accra, Gold Coast, Kumasi

• Togo

Lome

• Mali

Bamako and Mopti

• Ivory Coast

Abidjan

SOUTHEAST ASIA:

• Thailand (7)

Bangkok (7), Chiang Mai (5), Mae Sa Valley (2), Phuket (3), Koh Lanta, Koh Jum,
Koh Samui (2), Koh Chang (5), Pattaya (3), Khao Sok National Park, Chiang Rai Province – Doi Tung (2), Mae Salong (2) and Chiang Kong; Kanchanaburi (2),
Sangkhlaburi, Sakaeo, Sukhothai (2), Ayutthaya and Mae Hong Son Province-Pai (2), Soppong and Mae Hong Son (2)

• Laos

Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Mekong River Cruise

• Cambodia

Siem Reap(Angkor Wat)

EUROPE

• England

London Area

Please note: Number in Parentheses () indicates the number of visits

Feel free to submit your Travel Resume here!

On my recent trip to Mexico’s Costa Alegre, I had a very interesting experience on my final night in Barra de Navidad. Located just down the coast from La Manzanilla, ‘Barra’ is a small picturesque beach town, very popular with ‘spring breakers’ and families. Looking for a nice wholesome meal for dinner, I went to Casa Sol, a small garden café that I read about on the Internet. Some previous visitors gave this place some very favorable reviews - according to the press clippings, the small cafe featured live music nightly by some of the local musicians in the area. In addition, there was a hint of some vegetarian entrees being available. Just what the doctor ordered!

Walking into the café, I was given a friendly welcome by the proprietor, a middle aged lady who was stationed in the small kitchen. With a variety of colorful indigenous arts and crafts decorating the place, the small restaurant had a lot of ambiance. The place was virtually deserted and I was the only customer for the night. I asked the proprietor who was doubling as chef and waitress, if she could prepare me a nice vegetarian dinner? No problem she said, suggesting a Mediterranean salad and a spicy vegetarian pasta dish (not on the menu). Situating myself at the best table in the house, I began chatting with the proprietor whose name was Olga as she began preparing my meal. It’s always interesting to hear the stories of expatriates from North America, Europe and other ‘first world countries” who have relocated to the tropics to developing third world countries like Mexico.

Olga was born in Holland, but moved to the California during her ‘free wheeling hippie days” sometime in the mid 1970’s. She eventually settled down in Mendocino, a small coastal town in Northern California. Sometime in the late 1990’s, she bolted to Barra de Navidad after the dissolution of her marriage to start a new life. A light bulb went off in my head when she mentioned she had lived in Mendocino. I passed thru the area with a friend sometime in summer of 1998, staying overnight at a beautiful private home in the forested hills overlooking the coast. The house was owned by a client of mine by the name of Richard Redfern, who worked as a medical doctor in nearby hospital. Almost everybody in the area knew Dr. Redfern, who had the deserved reputation of being a very friendly and hospitable fellow, who often invited musicians of touring bands to crash at his place when they passed through the area. Of course, Olga, having lived in Mendocino for so many years, also knew the good Doctor fairly well, having visited him at his home on a number of occasions. What a coincidence!

Continuing with the story - Before heading to Richard’s house, my friend and I had an early dinner at the Mendocino Café and Grill. Shaking her head in disbelief, she related to me that during the 1990’s she was part owner (and a chef) at this very same establishment, before bolting to Mexico sometime after the summer of 1998. I distinctly remember my dinner there - I had one of the best salads that I’ve ever had, all the produce was organic and locally grown.

It is definitely a small world after all!

As a sidenote - there was no live entertainment that night, as the musicians pulled a no show. Boo…..

Has anybody had the experience of unexpectedly running into a friend or somebody you know during your travels overseas? Well, I ‘m sure it’s happened to many people. It’s a small world after all! (an expression popularized by the Disney attraction in Anaheim) Let me tell you about a couple of my unusual encounters.

It was shortly before the Christmas Holidays in 1973, when I treated myself to a 3-week trip to Mexico as a gift to myself for graduating UC Berkeley. For the first week of my trip, I stayed in the ‘up and coming resort’ of Puerto Vallarta. My hotel, the Marsol was located at the beginning of the popular Playa de los Muertos on the southern end of the strip. Sauntering along the beach, I ran into David Whitehurst, a college roommate of mine during my senior year in college. He was vacationing with his father, a medical doctor and his younger brother. After graduating from college, Dave moved back to Chicago to live with his peeps. I spent over an hour chatting with Dave, mostly reminiscing about the wild times we had during our final year at college. Shortly before he returned to his hotel, I invited him to a party at the Marsol that I was involved in. That’s another story in its own right.

Well, after that one hour on the beach with ole Dave in Vallarta, I never saw him again. I’m guessing he’s either practicing medicine or ODed on drugs… oh well!

The next unusual story involves my parents, who were vacationing in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico sometime in the early 1980s. While walking around town, they were approached by a young American fellow who was aggressively hawking condo timeshares. Sizing up my parents, he was able to gather a lot of background information on them. Upon learning my parent’s last name and where they currently lived, a light bulb went off in the guy’s head. Apparently the young man grew up very in the same general vicinity (in the adjoining town). Chatting with my parents some more, the young man, asked my parents if they had a son about his age, to which they replied yes. Aha, the young man replied - “I think I know your son, Is his name Hanumann?” My parents nodded. The young man continued, “Believe it or not, I attended the same Junior High School, 1962-1965 with your son.” It’s definitely a small world after all!

One of the great things about traveling to Thailand is the affordability of getting a decent massage. Whether you’re in Bangkok, Chiang Mai or any of the more popular tourist spots, there is an abundance of experienced masseuses available to work their magic on you. Most of the masseuses work in storefront operations or at one of the major hotels. In popular beach resorts like Phuket, Koh Samui or Koh Chang, there are masseuses who work for licensed concessions on the beach as well as freelancers who roam up and down the beach looking for customers.

There are three primary types of massages offered by the various massage salons in Thailand - Traditional Thai Massage (TTM), an oil fullbody massage and the foot-reflexology massage. Most of the gals who work in the salons are licensed or trained masseuses and utilize a variety of techniques especially when providing an oil and foot massage. As they say, no two massages are alike. On the other hand, the techniques used in Traditional Thai Massage are relatively uniform. In TTM, be prepared to have your body bent and stretched in every way imaginable; a very hard massage, almost all the muscles in the legs, arms, back and neck are kneaded and all the major the joints in the body are manipulated or cracked. At the end of the massage, as you lie on your stomach, the masseuse usually folds the legs and presses them against your back while she pulls your arms up and above. In wrestling parlance, this move is known as a surfboard. It can be somewhat uncomfortable, but the masseuse usually knows how far she can bend you without causing serious injury; if for some reason, you find this maneuver too painful, you can let her know by “Crying Uncle” and she’ll release you from the hold.

In contrast, the oil fullbody massage is a considerably more gentle procedure than TTM; some of the masseuses have been trained in Swedish massage techniques, which is a real bonus. With the oil massage, lot of options can be added including different types of aromatherapy. The foot -reflexology massage by far is probably the most popular type of massage and there are some large salons especially in Bangkok and Pattaya, which provide only this type of service. I admit that the foot massage is one my favorites, as I don’t have to take off my clothes and it is very therapeutic. Usually the whole procedure takes place while you’re sitting on a comfortable chair with your shoes off of course. After your feet are soaked in some lukewarm water, the masseuse applies pressure to the different pressure points on the soles of your feet while working slowly up to your calves. Typically the end of the session involves a massage of the shoulder muscles and the head in addition to a cracking of the neck. After good foot massage session, I feel like a million baht!

The going rate for a one hour foot massage is about 200 baht ($5.00USD), for a one hour Thai traditional massage, I believe the going rate is also 200 baht ($5.00USD) and for the one-hour oil massage (without any extras), the average rate is 250-300 baht ($6.00-7.500USD). If you go to fancy spa or to a massage salon at a luxury hotel, be prepared to pay 25%-50% higher for the same services. The extra expense is for the higher overhead and for the ambiance of the facilities. Usually in the deluxe spa facility, you can add some additional options to the basic massage treatment including aromatherapy, facial exfoliation and massage, foot scrub and peel, all for extra monies of course.

To me, there is nothing more relaxing than being on the receiving end of a gentle oil massage on the beach while lying underneath a palapa (a large umbrella) or in the cool shade of a large coconut palm tree while downing a nice cold Singha beer. Such is the feeling of being in paradise! And at 250 baht a day (6.00USD), I would be a fool not to have a massage on the beach every single day!

Note- In this discussion of massages, I have invented a new term, Massage Salon, for those establishments whose primary business is offering legitimate massage treatments as opposed to Massage Parlor, where a variety of sexual services are the main course and the actual massage is just the entrée. Hence Massage Salon= Legitimate Massages Services and Massage Parlor= Hanky Panky

While I’m on vacation, I admit that shopping is not one of my favorite pastimes. I would rather spend my time working out in the gym, running some laps around the park or reading a sexy novel while sunning myself out on the pool deck. For me, shopping is sort of a job and I only do it out of necessity, although I admit to enjoy looking at the latest books and english language magazines in the local bookstore. I don’t want to sound like a chauvinist, but shopping is primarily a lady’s pastime. That being said, I will relate to you some of my experience with shopping and shopping malls in Bangkok, Thailand.

Shopping seems to be the most popular pastime in this large Asian metropolis; and on the weekends especially, it seems that everybody who has had a paycheck (and their mother) is out shopping. In Bangkok, there is more square footage of shopping malls per square mile than anywhere else I’ve ever been. Most of the shopping malls are large multistoried structures that seemingly occupy several city blocks as opposed to the low-rise two level affairs that I am accustomed to in Northern California. I admit to have visited a few, namely the jigsaw puzzle known as Siam Center, the humongous but rather homely MBK, the ultra-chic Emporium and the huge, tacky electronic bazaar of Panthip Plaza.

In addition to the traditional shopping malls, there is the Night Bazaar, sort of an indoor flea market that it is only open at night and Chatuchak Market, an immense, sprawling market (most of the concessions are indoors), where you’ll find everything under the sun for sale from flowers, handicrafts, wood carvings, tourist souvenirs and T-shirts to furniture, tea sets, ceramics, jewelry and beads, live dogs, cats and snakes. Open from Friday afternoon thru Sunday, Chatuchak is so huge that it is so very easy to get lost. You’ll definitely need a map of the whole complex, though even with a map, you may still lose your orientation. On the weekends, JJ , as Chatuchak is affectionately known by the locals, is like “a sea of humanity” as it seems that all of Bangkok is there. I know that’s physically impossible, but at least 50% of Bangkokians are there, while the other 50% are shopping at MBK (short for Mah Boon Krong) or some of the other shopping centers. MBK is probably the least glamorous of all the shopping malls in Bangkok but for the savvy shopper this is the place to go if looking for some real good bargains. An eight story marbled structure with over 2500 shops and concessions, MBK is like a self contained city. It’s a monstrousity! One time, I went to MBK Center on a Saturday to visit the Pathuwan Princess Hotel (which adjoins MBK). The place was so congested with shoppers, I had to weave in and out of ‘the human zoo” like a darting halfback (football running back) in order to make it to the hotel located at the far end of plaza. Touchdown!

In addition to the shopping malls, the Night Bazaar and JJ, everywhere on the streets of Bangkok, there are a whole slew of vendors selling a diverse potpourri of goods including sunglasses, watches that don’t work, pirated CDS’s, cell phones, knockoff jeans, tourist knickknacks, T-shirts, belts, sandals, scarves, flowers, costume jewelry etc, etc

The Emporium, located on the Upper Sukhumvit in the heart of the Tourist Zone (and adjoining the BTS Skytrain at the Phrom Phong station) is perhaps the most gaudy and upscale shopping mall in Bangkok. Laid out like caracole (snail), navigating in this multistoried shopping plaza can sometimes be very confusing especially if you’re trying to find the exit out onto the street or to the Skytrain. There are many highbrow stores inside selling fancy western clothes and accessories at somewhat outrageous prices, overpriced coffee shops and art deco restaurants as well as specialty stores selling electronic goods, women’s cosmetics and perfume. Hint - If you’re looking for an affordable place to eat, try the Food Court at the Emporium. Prices aren’t too bad and they have a decent selection of Thai and Asian specialties as well as pizza, hamburgers, hot dogs, french fries and other western dishes. In the middle of the mall, there is even an Internet café. It seems that whenever I go there, there is always some loud, thumping disco or hip-hop music playing and it drives me crazy. The only redeeming quality about the Emporium, in my humble opinion, is that it is a great place to go watch the girls go by. There are some real stunners who shop there and some of the salesgirls are real eye candy. Coming up next, my shopping ordeal at Panthip Plaza.

When I go to Thailand, I tend to do a lot more drinking and cavorting than I do at home. After all I am on vacation (or at least I’m on a working vacation). Truth be told when I’m at home, I’m a virtual teetotaler. In Bangkok, sometimes after having a dinner, I like to stop at one of the outdoor bars along the Sukhumvit or near Washington Square and have a drink or two before I head back to my hotel. I’m not much of a beer drinker, although I do admit that Singha beer is pretty good as far as beers go, Leo goes down smooth and Chang has somewhat of malty taste, and with it’s higher alcoholic content has quite a kick. In fact if I want to go to sleep, drinking one large bottle of Chang definitely will knock me out. More effective than a sleeping pill, that’s for sure.

Like I said, as I’m not really a beer drinker, I usually will opt for something simple like a ‘rum and coke’ as my nightcap. Sometimes it can get very frustrating going to a Thai bar and trying to order this traditional mixed drink as most of the bartendresses have difficulty understanding what I’m talking about. On many occasions, the cocktail waitress will bring me just a bottle of coke and glass with ice and I will end up shaking my head in frustration, looking into the puzzled girl’s face and asking her ‘but where’s the rum?” Obviously, there’s language barrier at work here as rum and coke does not compute in their language. Now, if I were to say Ba Car Dee coke with the emphasis on the 2nd syllable in Bacardi, that usually does the trick; then the bartendress or cocktail waitress knows exactly what I want. If push comes to shove, I point to the bottle of Bacardi behind the bar. This little scenario usually results in laughs and smiles on both sides.

Now, rum and coke at a decent outdoor bar along the Sukhumvit will cost about 100 baht (2.50USD). I remember on one occasion, I went out for drinks (and to sample some local color) on a hot sweltering night in Bangkok at about 12 midnight. Stopping at an outdoor bar along the Sukhumvit, I was immediately greeted by a bevy of lovely young Isaan bargirls smiling at me. Taking a seat at one of the tables, I looked up at the chalkboard behind the bar and saw that they were running a special for Mekong Cola for only 40 baht. For those of don’t know, Mekong is a very powerful local Thai whiskey. Doing some quick arithmetic in my head - the Mekong cola at 40 baht was 6o baht cheaper than rum and coke, so I said to myself why not play the role of frugal tourist tonite? One of the gals proceeded to join me at the table plopping herself on my lap and I proceeded to order a Mekong cola for me and my newfound friend. Drinking a Mekong cola with Morlam music blaring in the background and a beautiful Thai lady on my lap, I was having a wonderful time. I was thinking to myself, the Mekong Cola did not taste that much different than rum and coke (must be the coke). Finishing my cocktail, I ordered another round. After downing my second dose , as it was getting past the witching hour, I decided to head back to my hotel to get some shuteye much to the chagrin of the young bargirl who obviously liked my company.

Next morning, I woke you with a headache that wouldn’t quit. It felt like someone had kicked me in the head. It wasn’t until later in the day after I ran my customary 5 miles and worked out in the gym, did the headache go away. Well, I definitely learned my lesson from the prior night’s escapade. No more Mekong Cola for me!. Local Thai whiskey is some toxic stuff! From now on, I would pay an extra 60 baht to have my customary rum and coke, excuse me Ba Car Dee coke. One night in Bangkok, will definitely make a poor man humble especially if you’ve been drinking Mekong Cola!

I encountered this fierce looking Water Buffalo in Khao Soi Dow Wildlife Sanctuary in eastern Thailand. I don’t know how tame or domesticated this creature was, but I dared not get within 8 meters of him as it appeared he was ready to charge at me. Traditionally, Water buffaloes are revered animals in Thai culture as they have played a very prominent role in the cultivation of rice paddies in the lowlands of rural Thailand. I have heard many Isaan gals in Bangkok tell me stories about their Water Buffalo back on their farm in Isaan country (Northeastern Thailand).

Before the onset of the rainy season, the water buffalo and the farmer work long hours plowing and tilling the paddy field, getting it ready for the planting of rice. After the planting is finished, these workhouse animals are used to haul heavy loads in the village and also for sport. In the last 20 years or so, these noble farm animals have been displaced from the work force by the increasing reliance on agricultural machinery and modern technology in rural Thailand. Replaced by “mechanical buffalo”, the water buffaloes fell victim to the growing demand for beef in the swelling urban centers. An increasing number of them have been rounded up in recent years and sent off to the slaughterhouse to meet this demand.

No doubt, the introduction of Western food chains like McDonalds have accelerated the demise of the water buffalo as fast food restaurants have become increasingly popular in major Thai cities. Essentially, this is an example of how Western culture has corrupted traditional Eastern cultures. Call it Globalization if you may but in any case the overall numbers of the Water Buffalo have dropped precipitously, from over 6 million in 1981 to almost 1 million as of today. Buffalo burgers anybody?

Finding the right airlines for your long overseas trip to Southeast Asia, Africa or Europe is more than just finding the cheapest airfare. Among other important factors are airline safety records, the total amount of time in the air, the relatively degree of onboard comfort and if there is a connection involved, the layover time between flights.

Having flown to Thailand six times from San Francisco in the past 5 years, I definitely have experience in long haul flights. The total flight time from San Francisco is at least 17 hours to Thailand and the time difference is 14-15 hours (Thailand is ahead of us). I really put a high premium on onboard comfort as a key factor when choosing airlines. From my experience, Asian carriers cram as many seats as possible in the coach compartment; as a result legroom is minimal. If you’re taller than 5’10”, you’ll definitely feel squashed. Hint - American flag carriers, in general, have better than average legroom and more comfortable seats.

Periodically the airlines do have some fantastic sales to Thailand, so you’ll have to keep a vigilant watch, as sometimes fares are known to dip to about $600 on legitimate 4 and 5 star airlines like Cathay Pacific. Just be mindful, that if you’re flying on an Asian carrier, legroom and overall seat comfort can be relatively poor. Another thing when scouring the airlines for specials, is to beware of overly long connections between flights; sometimes in order to get a ridiculously inexpensive airfare, you will have a layover between 4-12 hours (or more). Worse yet are routings which involve more than one connection or those that take you all over the world before you arrive at your destination Another very important consideration - stay with major, brand name airlines with proven safety records. By all means, you want to avoid flying on airlines with names like Taliban Airways which use old refurbished WWII aircraft and have connections in places like Kabul, Kosovo or Timbuktu, no matter what the cost. You may want to utilize an airline rating service like Skytrax to help determine which airlines to choose from.

Coming up in my next installment ia a cursory review of all the flights that I have taken to the Land of Smiles!

The Dorado (in Barbados, more commonly known as Flying Fish) has had a long storied history in Bajan Culture. This fish is symbolic of Barbados’s very close relationship with the sea for its sustenance and economic well-being. The flying fish (Dorado) is one of the most abundant species of fish caught in Barbados’s Caribbean waters and for many generations, Bajan fisherman have been catching this fish to feed their families and as a source of income. In Barbados, many small community’s livelihood and well-being is dependant on the flying fish. No wonder that this revered fish is considered a national icon!. The image of the flying fish can be found on the back of Bajan dollar coins and one of the most popular indigenous dishes is fried or grilled flying fish with pepper sauce, callaloo and rice; it’s supposed to be very tasty. Walking into the tourist office in downtown Bridgetown, a beautiful framed print of the flying fish against the backdrop of one of the Caribbean beaches is mounted on the wall above the information counter. At one time, the Barbados Tourist Board used this print on the cover of all their tourist literature. Flying fish anybody? Bim, Let’s head to Barbados!
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