Archive for the ‘travel’ Category

I’m still waiting for my chicken to lay her eggs

Tuesday, January 25th, 2011

The following tale is about special chickens in Thailand which lay yolkless eggs. Strange but true!

Egg white scrambleIt was my first full day on Koh Libong, a relatively remote island in Southern Thailand. As I had signed up for a sightseeing tour which was scheduled for 8:30AM, I decided to have an early morning breakfast in the hotel’s outdoor restaurant.

It was 7:40AM, when I walked up to the young man by the hotel kitchen to order my breakfast. I knew the young man’s understanding of English was minimal, so using the menu which had the entrees in both Thai and English, I pointed to the items which I wanted – toast and jam and scrambled eggs. There was one small wrinkle to my order - I wanted scrambled eggs without the egg yolk (in other words, an egg white scramble).

With the aid of Thai-English dictionary and by drawing a picture, I believe that I was finally able to get the message across – it took about 5-6 minutes.

While sipping on some hot tea at my table, I waited for my breakfast as other hotel guests gradually filtered in; the regular waitress took their orders. About 30 minutes elapsed and still no food; in the meantime, other hotel guests were getting their breakfast - some with scrambled eggs. I remarked to a fellow guest who had just been served, “I guess they’re still waiting for my chicken to lay her eggs.”

Finally 8:30AM rolled around and still no breakfast; I had run out of patience and confronted the young man who took my order – In broken English, he said “We are still trying to find a chicken that lays eggs without the yellow (egg yolk). Just kidding… Actually with a look of complete shock in his face, he said “I forgot. I’m sorry, sir.”

Because I was so upset, I decided not to go on the tour. Finally my breakfast with the egg white scramble arrived about 10 minutes later. Another hour later, my bad feelings dissipated and it turned out to be another sabai sabai day in paradise.

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Is it true that Chinese people eat anything that moves?

Wednesday, January 19th, 2011

Chinese restaurant in GuilinCivets and Snakes in cages
While I was in Guilin, a medium sized city in Guangxi province, I befriended a middle-aged tourist from Singapore by the name of John. Ethnically Chinese, John spoke Mandarin fluently and had traveled extensively throughout China.

After a day of sightseeing with John in Guilin, he took me to a relatively upscale Chinese restaurant located in the heart of the tourist quarter. When John found out that I was a strict vegetarian, we began a conversation about the exoticism of Chinese cuisine - in particular, the diverse dishes normally offered at most Chinese restaurants.

Tongue in Cheek, John said “Chinese people eat anything moves.” Although this is a popular stereotype about Chinese people, it does have some basis in reality. Traditionally, Chinese people have a considerably more diverse and exotic diet than Westerners; the diet includes a greater variety of protein matter – including fried insects and grub, turtles, snakes, sharks, civets as well other mammals and wild animals – in addition to aphrodisiacs which often consist of the sexual organs and body parts of certain animals.

Usually you will have to go to a Gourmet Chinese restaurant in order to have the some of the more exotic dishes.

Rather than being critical about the Culinary Culture of Chinese people, let’s just say there are significant cultural differences between the West and the East.

Back to the story at hand
– I had some delicious vegetarian food at the restaurant while John and the taxi driver devoured some very exotic seafood dishes. After making his selection from the menu, John was invited into the back room of the restaurant to choose which fish would be killed for his meal.

After finishing our dinner, we walked outside the restaurant where we saw a variety of animals in cages – civets, turtles, snakes and some rather exotic and large fishes in an aquarium. All these creatures were waiting to be selected and carved up for someone’s meal. Fortunately, I didn’t see any dogs, monkeys or bats in cages, otherwise I may have gotten sick.

It should be noted that most Chinese restaurants do not normally supply napkins to their customers. Upon request, they will provide a set of napkins for 5 yuan (75 cents USD).

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How I cleared an airport café in China of cigarette smokers

Sunday, January 16th, 2011

Cafe at  Canton AirportIf you have been following Calypso Island Chronicles, you know how much I detest cigarette smoke. Fortunately in California where I currently reside, all restaurants and bars prohibit cigarette smoking. Hooray!

However in many other countries, the laws pertaining to smoking in public places are either nonexistent or less restrictive, so as a traveler, a lot of times, I just have to grin and bear it because let’s face it, many of my fellow travelers - especially from Europe - are dyed-in-the wool smokers.

To illustrate my resolve against cigarette smoke (and smokers), I would like to share a recent experience at the Canton Airport in CHINA. I had a long layover for my continuing flight to Guilin, so I decided to hang out at one of the airport cafes at that offered free WIFI. Sitting myself down at a table in the nonsmoking section, I observed much to chagrin that there were a number of patrons smoking including middle aged Indian couple two tables away.

When I told the couple that this section of the café was nonsmoking – pointing to the nonsmoking sign on the far wall - and that out of consideration they should either stop smoking or to move to the smoking section of the café, the lady got very upset. She told me a very angry tone – it’s not her problem but the management’s as she continued to smoke away.

After digesting her response, I called the young waitress over, and explained to her that this was a nonsmoking section and suggested that she should either enforce the rules or take down the sign. Although her understanding of English was not 100%, she definitely understood me. After some considerable hesitation, she went to all the smoking patrons – including the Indian couple - and advised them to either stop smoking or go to the café’s smoking section

Shortly thereafter, there was a mass exodus of all the smokers – about 7 people in all including the Indian lady. As she left, she gave me a very nasty look as if I was the villain in this situation. Smiling, I responded by saying “Have a Good Day”, satisfied with my triumph!

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An education in Chinese Culture - Three Lessons

Friday, January 14th, 2011

The following opinion is deemed not to be prejudicial but emphasizes the cultural differences between Chinese and American cultures as seen by a westerner

Canton airportI learned a lot about Chinese Culture during my brief visit to Mainland China. My education started on the flight between Bangkok and Guangzhou.

Several Chinese people were having a conversation on the plane, however they were a couple of rows apart and their voices were very loud. Unfortunately I was caught in the crossfire so to speak.

Needless to say, their loud, booming voices gave me a headache. On my subsequent flights within China, the same scenario happened.

Lesson 1: Chinese people have very loud voices and having a conversation with someone several rows away on a plane is considered acceptable

My education continued at Guangzhou Airport. I walked inside an airport café and while looking for an empty table, I observed three Chinese men smoking cigarettes at a table by the window. One of the gentlemen had a hacking cough and proceeded to spit on the floor of the café not only once but three times.

As proof this was not an aberration, later on during my trip while traveling on a public bus, the same thing happened. Several men had hacking coughs - I presume they were smokers- and they proceeded to spit on the floor of the bus.

Lesson 2: Spitting in public places is acceptable in Chinese culture

During my 9 days in China, I observed that over 50% of the men smoke cigarettes and most of them are heavy smokers with a couple of packs a day habit. Due to their heavy smoking, many of the men have a hacking cough – symptoms of bronchitis.

Lesson 3: Smoking among men in China is the norm - In Chinese culture, smoking is considered a good way to make friends

Despite the obvious cultural differences and language difficulties, I found that Chinese people are very friendly and hospitable to Western visitors.

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Tale of two old Backpackers in Thailand

Thursday, January 13th, 2011

Chiang Khan Tourists
I had just boarded a songthaew in the city of Loei to Chiang Khan, a hip tourist town located along the Mekong River in Northeastern Thailand. Especially popular with the younger professional crowd from Bangkok, Chiang Khan has often been called the Thai version of Pai, a popular retreat and hangout with western tourists in Northern Thailand.

Just as the songthaew was about to take off, an elderly couple – backpacker types - walked briskly to the retrofitted truck and hopped on board. Like your typical backpacker, this pair was outfitted with a huge backpack on their back and a smaller daypack on their chest.

As I traded stories with this rather feisty couple (Joe and Judy), I discovered that they were from Western Canada and were in the middle of a 6-month journey that would take them to Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Myanmar. Seasoned travelers, they had traveled numerous times to Southeast Asia, South America and around the world.

Typical of backpackers, they had only a generalized travel plan but not a concrete itinerary nor did they ever book a guesthouse or hotel in advance. They did things strictly on the fly - only upon arriving at their next destination, would they look for lodging. In addition, they had a very strict budget which they adhered to. In Thailand, the maximum expense for accommodation was 500 baht per night ($17USD). According to Joe, they always traveled like this and never had a problem finding a decent place to stay.

As it was the King’s Birthday Holiday weekend (Dec. 3-5), perhaps the busiest holiday weekend for Thai people, it would be extremely difficult finding a place to stay in this small tourist town. Shortly before I arriving in Chiang Khan, I cautioned the couple about the shortage of guestrooms. I had called at least 10 places in advance without any luck - I was fortunate to have reserved “a room” a couple of blocks from the river, albeit for only one night for 400 baht. Alas, I was a prepared for a very brief visit in Chiang Khan.

Undaunted about the prospects of finding a place to stay, the backpacker couple were last seen knocking on the doors of all the guesthouses and homestays located along the river. One thing I forget to mention - these backpackers were 80 years old!

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Why do Chinese men smoke so much? The Answer!

Tuesday, December 28th, 2010

Cigarettes in ChinaJust the other day, I walked into a tea shoppe in downtown Guilin, a very pleasant city in southern China. After making my purchase and making some chitchat with the owner (I know only 10 phrases in Mandarin), two Chinese men came into the store. I gathered these gentlemen were locals. After a brief conversation with the owner, one of the guys pulled out a cigarette and started smoking and also offered the owner a smoke, which he gladly accepted.

Then he turned around, and offered me a smoke. I politely refused, making a waving motion with my hand to signal to him that I didn’t smoke. It turned out this Chinese guy spoke fairly good English and being the inquisitive type, I asked him why do so many Chinese men smoke - most of these guys are heavy smokers, and always coughing and spitting up phlegm. He replied without hesitation, Smoking cigarettes is a good way to make friends and meet people. I just nodded my head and said, well OK!

Personally, I detest cigarette smoke - smoking is a filthy and very unhealthy habit. In China, over 50% of the men smoke. Oh well….

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Prominent Thai Psychic forecasts catastrophic tsunami

Tuesday, December 28th, 2010

Low tide Koh Libong Backpacker walking down beach
Funny Thing – When I told a good friend of mine in Bangkok that I had decided to spend Christmas week in Koh Libong - a small island resort in Southern Thailand - she warned me that I might want to reconsider my plans.

According to my friend, a prominent Thai psychic predicted that a catastrophic tsunami would obliterate the Andaman Seaboard, sometime late December, wreaking havoc on the many islands and popular tourist resorts in the area. Undoubtedly a tsunami of this magnitude would cause complete destruction of all buildings and structures, as well as drowning virtually all residents and vacationing tourists.

You may recall that a very powerful tsunami happened in this region on December 26, 2004. Coincidentally I was vacationing in Kamala Beach on Phuket Island up until December 21 before returning to the USA from Bangkok on December 23 – the Kamala Beach resort area was probably the most severely impacted area in Thailand. I just missed the Tsunami by a couple of days - I guess I was lucky!

Now I am not the sort of person who is going to jump onto the railroad tracks while a train is coming; at the same time, I am not going to be scared by the dire predictions of a Thai Psychic. In fact, these sort of predictions are made all the time in Thailand.

Well in the unlikely event that the Tsunami prediction comes true and claims my life, I shall consider it as my destiny. I will have absolutely no regrets about spending the last hours of my life in paradise before I meet my maker. Que sera sera, whatever will be, will be. The future is not ours to see, Que Sera, sera.

Believe it or not, I made a little wager with my friend in Bangkok. If the Tsunami prediction does not come true, she will have to take me out to dinner to the restaurant of my choice in Bangkok on December 31. And if I lose the wager, I have left instructions with my sister in America, to wire $40,000 to my friend’s bank account in Thailand. I think I like my odds……HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY!

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Beware of the shoes at the entrance to Thai guesthouses

Saturday, December 11th, 2010

Sea off shoes at entrance of Thai guesthouseIn Thailand (and in all Buddhist countries) it is customary to take off your shoes before you enter someone’s house. I can understand the rationale with this custom, as shoes can bring in dirt, mud and lots of muck into the house.

At many Thai guesthouses, this particular custom can create a lot of havoc. Most people – both Thaïs and western tourists – more commonly known as farangs - will often haphazardly drop their shoes right in front of the entrance. It can be somewhat treacherous to navigate through the sea of shoes when entering the guesthouse especially at night. Someone could easily trip and have an accident.

Wouldn’t it be a lot better, if the management of the guesthouse had a sign at the entrance, urging guests to place their shoes in am orderly fashion to the sides of the entrance? I have even seen some establishments, notably some upscale Thai restaurants like Whole Earth in Chiang Mai that have shoe racks. I wish all guesthouses would adopt this system.

Funny thing, at the guesthouse that I am staying at in Nan – Nan Guesthouse - the collection of shoes got way out of control. In the morning when I woke up, I observed that one of the ladies who works here used her head and carefully placed all shoes to the side of the doorway – she even took the initiative to match all shoes up, bless her heart! When I check out, I will have to give her a nice tip!

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Dining out in Bangkok - Thai Style

Wednesday, December 8th, 2010

Thais dining on the streetI saw something quite unusual in Bangkok the other day. I was visiting K-Village, the new upscale boutique shopping center located on Sukhumvit Soi 26. Walking across the street, I came across a group of Thai people sitting on a large bamboo mat at the busy street corner - just in from of the pedestrian Carrefour Superstore - eating their dinner. They had just purchased their food from a nearby mobile food vendor.

Actually, sitting down and eating on a bamboo mat is the traditional way of eating a meal in Thai Culture - it is just that I had never seen Thai people in Bangkok doing it outside on the street before. I guess you learn or observe something new every day about the customs and culture of a country when you are a traveler.

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Special Pricing for Tourists in Thailand

Monday, December 6th, 2010

Mekong River-Pak ChomI had a very interesting experience while staying in Pak Chom, a small relatively obscure town located along the Mekong River in Northeastern Thailand. Definitely off the beaten track, this small town receives a handful of Thai travelers who typically stay one night before moving on to their next destination. The town has a number of “small resorts” with little or no amenities, and as far as I can tell I was the only farang (western tourist) in town.

On my first day in town, one of the hotel employees took me to a local restaurant, which could prepare a vegetarian dinner for me. A rather pleasant open-air affair located not far from the river, I returned there later that night by bicycle for dinner

I ordered two vegetarian dishes – plates of spicy morning glory and stir-fried vegetables accompanied by rice and a large beer. A rather amiable Thai gentleman by the name of Karn joined me at the table and tried to engage me in a conversation but the communications were difficult as my facility with Thai is almost nonexistent and his English was very limited. Over a beer, Karn explained to me that he was the postmaster of Pak Chom; I later deduced that he was also the owner of the restaurant as well.

Upon requesting the bill (the total was 200 baht), I noticed that I was being charged 50 baht for the mixed vegetables, 70 baht for the morning glory and 10 baht for the rice. Returning there the 2nd night, I was charged 70 baht apiece for the fried mixed vegetables and morning glory. In both instances, the owner figured out the bill.

On the 3rd (and final) night, I returned there for dinner and had the exact same dishes and was charged 30 baht per plate. This time around, one of the young employees figured out the bill.

It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out that I was victim of special pricing the first two nights by virtue of being an outsider and a tourist. The owner definitely tried to take advantage of me by jacking up the bill.

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