I would like to share with you my favorite trio of restaurants in Langkawi, Malaysia’s most popular beach destination. Almost all tourists are self-styled restaurant critics. I am no different, except there is one caveat - I’m a vegetarian (97% vegan). While I’m not fussy, I am very conscious about the way the food is prepared - you know, minimal salt and oil etc. If the produce used in the restaurant is organic and grown locally, so much the better. Finding some decent vegetarian friendly restaurants in Cenang Beach, Langkawi’s liveliest resort area, was a little difficult as many of the restaurants specialize in the traditional Malay cuisine which is heavy on fish sauce, meat and seafood, however I did see a number of Indian and Middle Eastern restaurants that offered vegetarian entrees, and a lesser number of Chinese and Thai restaurants as well.

Be forewarned, there are some pseudo fancy Indian restaurants in the area, but menu prices looked a bit on the high side and judging from the lack of customers, the food at these places was probably mediocre at best!

My wholehearted recommendations are as follows:
**** Let’s hear the drumroll please!****

1. The Oasis Pub and Restaurant
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   Located about 200 meters south of Underwater World, this small beachside café specializes in North Indian Tandoori and Western food. After sunset, the ambiance at the Oasis Beach Club is very special with large colored light bulbs and candlelights illuminating the outdoor dining area. Did I say romantic? At the Oasis, there’s a good selection of set Indian dinners – both vegetarian and non-vegetarian – and for Langkawi, entrée prices are fairly reasonable. The fact that I ate there two of the four nights that I stayed in Langkawi has to tell you something – the food was very tasty. Only negative thing that I can think was that the service can be somewhat indifferent.

2. Red Tomato Café
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   Located just 50 meters north of AB Motel was RED TOMATO, this small rather eclectic café offers a variety of mostly Mediterranean and Western dishes. The ambiance is very tropical, funky and offbeat – a place where most western tourists feel comfortable and judging from the crowds that gather here for the early morning hours, this café is hands down the most popular place for breakfast in town. While I was having breakfast there one morning, Red Tomato was so busy that the Maitre-D was putting people on a waitlist. What did I have for breakfast? A large mixed fruit salad with yogurt and granola accompanied by some delicious organic coffee (not Nescafe, thank G-D) and a toasted baguette. Don’t miss out on their wonderful homemade bread and rolls!

   The European lady who owns the place is a little quirky, but her Malay husband, Oli - by occupation, he is a building contractor in Langkawi - seems to be a really amiable gentleman. He even posed for a series of pictures for me. I didn’t have a chance to make it there for dinner, but the menu had some decent vegetarian options including some delicious sounding salads. Service can be a little bit spotty though and prices are a little on the high side for Langkawi. In addition, their free Wifi is very fast - a lot faster than the service I paid for at the AB Motel. Soymilk is available upon request for their mixed coffee drinks.

3. HAROO
   ****1/2

   Owned by a middle-aged couple from Korea, Haroo is located on a side street directly opposite Underwater World. Haroo offers a very diverse dinner menu, but their breakfast offerings are rather standard - toast, eggs, hash brown and a small juice. The service is very good and the prices are very affordable. The one time I went there for dinner, I ordered a very delicious vegetarian curry dish, rice and a side of garlic bread. Hmm very tasty! The husband personally greets every guest that walks into the restaurant with a bow and a smile, while his wife mans the kitchen. Overall, this is probably my favorite restaurant in LANGKAWI as the husband and wife tandem are such gracious and humble hosts. Their daughter, who is very fluent in English, is quite artistic – see her tribute to chairs and coffee houses on the far wall. Excellent calligraphy. Highly recommended!

Kevan, the proprietor of Phu Lang Ka Lodge, is an extraordinary man. As the elected president of the Yao (Mien) people of Thailand, Kevan and his wife, Nong are very active in the community and play an instrumental role in the preservation of Yao culture and heritage. The Yao originate from the highlands of Southern China - over the years they have migrated and established communities over most of Southeast Asia. Numbering approximately 50,000 in Thailand, the Yao (Mien) people live for the most part in the northern provinces of Nan and Phayao and are one of the most successful and well educated of all the hilltribe groups.

Kevan is also the director of Ban Mai Pang Ka, a small community school that is funded by the government, at the nearby district of Pong. The school has about 320 students (ages 4-16) and is attended primarily by Hmong and Yao children from the surrounding villages. While most of the kids take public transportation to the school, about 70 children live at the school during the week - on a room and board basis - to return home on the weekends to be with their parents. About 65% of the children are Hmong and 30% are Yao. For the schoolchildren, the education is free and the Government pays for the salary of Kevan and his staff of 19 teachers.

Kevan and his staff organized a very impressive 2 day tribute, this past November to the recently deceased Princess Galyani, the king’s elder sister. On Thursday, November 20, there were ceremonial marches by the school children; then on Friday, both the principal hilltribe groups in the area - the Hmong and the Yao - staged their own separate tribute for the belated Princess, who during her lifetime had contributed much of her time and energies towards the improvement and welfare of Thailand’s hilltribes. Yao dignitaries from Oregon (USA) - friends of Kevan and Nong - showed up to pay their respects as well. Very well done, Kevan!

More on this Special Tribute in a subsequent post

The small nature lodge at Phu Lang Ka is a family affair - Kevan’s two daughters, Irene and Nissana and his son, Sattapat help him out with the responsibilities of running the lodge. He and his lovely wife, Nong maintain a beautiful home in Chiang Kham, a small city located about 33 KM away from Phu Lang Ka.

Everybody in Bangkok has been raving about PRIMO POSTO, the new Italian restaurant-café located in the Thai countryside, so this past weekend my friend and I decided to check out what all the buzz was about. Located near Khao Yai National Park about 160KM from Bangkok, by car, it’s a leisurely two-hour drive to Primo Posto. See map below

Believe it or not, all the hype is well deserved - the architecture and landscaping was absolutely breathtaking. Painted in many brilliant colors, the Italian style building houses a coffee shop, restaurant, ice cream parlor, gift shop and an upstairs art gallery. Chatting briefly with the owner, he said “the design is from my experience and strong inspiration from traveling through Tuscany and Florence in Italy.” In the backyard, wooden benches and tables were set up under the shade of the building not far from the green fields of the wine vineyard. Covered with brown trees and dry vegetation - showing signs of the approaching summer - the mountains loomed in the background forming the perfect backdrop for this new Italian country café. Primo Posto exudes such a wonderful ambiance that even though I have never been in ITALY before, It felt like I had been transported somewhere in the Italian countryside. It took me a minute or so to realize that I was still in Thailand.

For the time being, the coffee shop and restaurant is only open Friday-Sunday and public holidays. When I was there, I observed that there were many hipsters visiting Primo Posto. It seems most of them stayed just long enough to take a couple of pictures before moving on. Prices for coffee and coffee drinks are similar to Starbucks in Bangkok, and the restaurant fare is somewhat pricey for most Thai people but would be considered affordable to the oversea tourist crowd (farangs).

To discourage the casual Thai tourist who stops there only to take couple of pictures without buying anything, the owner has instituted a 55 baht entrance fee which can be exchanged for one scoop of ice cream or applied to any coffee drink or item on the menu.

For more pictures of Primo Posto, see my photo album.

I admit to being a Chinese food enthusiast; although I’m a vegetarian, most Chinese restaurants can accommodate me by substituting soy bean curd (tofu) for meat/chicken/seafood. One of my favorite dishes – I usually order it with all my meals - is hot and sour soup, a staple in Chinese cuisine. I have had this particular soup at Chinese restaurants not only in my home town of San Francisco but all around the world, in places as far away as Accra, Ghana and Quito, Ecuador. The common denominator is that the soup is relatively spicy and has a certain thickness or consistency.

Believe it or not, the worst hot and sour soup that I have ever had was at Kim Liam Kee, a rather, large establishment located on Petaling Street in the heart of Kuala Lumpur’s famous Chinatown. I ate at this establishment on Nov. 27 of this year - it was my first night in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s capital city and after a strenuous day of travel, I really wanted a proper vegetarian meal. My hotel was an easy 5-minute walk to Chinatown and my decision to patronize this particular restaurant was primarily because of their rather large and very prominent signage.

I ordered two dishes at Kim Lian Kee – a vegetarian claypot dish with rice and a small hot and sour soup to the accompaniment of a Royal Stout. While the claypot dish was satisfactory, the soup was very watery and had hardly any taste – it was so bad, I thought I would let the management know about it. Now I’m a person who is not afraid to voice his opinions to the restaurant management if the service or the food is bad.

Expressing my dissatisfaction vociferously with the manager over the bland tasting soup, I opened up ‘a rather large can of worms’. Later on, I asked the manager to reprimand the young waitress for her very flippant comment when I requested the bill. After hearing my complaint, he smiled and replied “I am sorry sir, none of these girls have any training; they are hired off the street.” After hearing that, it was very difficult for me to refrain from laughing out loud!

In retrospect, I really thought the whole incident was quite amusing as I relished playing the role of the incensed tourist-customer. Bottom line - I would never, ever go back to this restaurant and recommend that my fellow travelers do not patronize this establishment as well. For a detailed account of my rather dismal experience at Kim Lian Kee, I have filed a report on TripAdvisor

On my 2nd night (and final night in Kuala Lumpur), I went to Fatt Yan, a small vegetarian Chinese restaurant that received very favorable reviews in Happy Cow. The price was right at 18.50RM ($5.25USD) and my two entrees were very tasty – one of which was a vegetarian hot and sour soup. Take that Kim Lian Kee!

I was very fortunate to have chosen the ANCASA HOTEL for my brief 2-night stay in Kuala Lumpur. Situated only two short blocks from Chinatown, the hotel’s location is ideal - Puduraya, the interstate bus terminal is next door while the public mass transit system- the overhead monorail and underground trains - are within easy walking distance. As a bonus, Starbucks Café with free WIFI is conveniently located directly across the street. And at $51USD including breakfast, the price is right. While the hotel is short on facilities - no swimming pool and only a stripped down and small fitness center – all rooms come with cable TV, free wifi, a hot water utensil and a small refrigerator and the breakfast buffet was more than satisfactory with a variety of hot and cold dishes, rolls and pastries as well as fresh fruit. The hotel management seemed very keen on customer service.

The young manager, an Indian fellow who I believe is first generation Malaysian, was especially accommodating. Upon check in, he personally gave me a guided tour of the hotel and its facilities - gym and the massage treatment concession - and answered most of my questions about Kuala Lumpur. While he was showing me around, we chatted a bit about the terrorist attack in Mumbai, India as well as the political situation and demonstrations in Thailand. Although he did give me a bum steer as to where to find premium T-shirts as gifts, I cannot really fault him for that – he meant well.

Bottom Line – I would highly recommend the ANCASA Hotel for the first time visitor to Kuala Lumpur. While short in facilities, it is very affordable for a 3 star property and you cannot beat the location.

I returned to The NEST at the end of my stay to get a better feel for the place. The club has been hyped up in several publications including Conde Nast Magazine as the new “in place” in Bangkok. The club is especially popular with young, professional Bangkokians who are status conscious and want to be part of the scene. Taking a look at the drink menu, the club has sunk to the lowest common denominator by naming drinks with such sexually suggestive names like Blowjob etc. Now, I am not a prude or anything but you would think that a high-class club would refrain from this type of gutter vulgarity

Despite my disdain for the names of their drinks, I went ahead and ordered a Blowjob anyhow - which I affectionately renamed Blowjob by the Sea - since it was my last night in Thailand and I wanted go out with a bang. It was supposed to be a mixed concoction consisting of Baileys Irish Cream, Kahlua topped with whipped cream. When the waitress served me my drink - a tiny glass that consisted mostly of whipped cream with no more than 3 tablespoons of the liqueur sitting at the bottom - I voiced my displeasure. I was really expecting a more substantial drink in a larger glass (with considerably more alcohol) – it was like paying for a blowjob without getting blown. My date ordered some sort of fruit juice cocktail sans alcohol. Total damage 21.00USD. I sarcastically remarked to my ladyfriend that this was robbery but in a way I expected as much. Jokingly I said, “I should have ordered boom-boom in the jungle instead.”

While taking some pictures of the Bangkok Skyline, I chatted with four young upwardly mobile Thai ladies from Bangkok who were sitting together on one large love seat - one of the young ladies asked me if I wanted to take a picture of them but my date came over and voiced her displeasure, so I decided to forego the photo. The young ladies seemed to be enjoying themselves - it seems that Thais really don’t mind being ripped off as long as they go to a place which is considered high class. Would I return? Most likely no - maybe if they had an African or Reggae DJ night but hip-hop and the musical fare that the DJ was spinning is really not my cup of tea.

In summary, I was somewhat disappointed with THE NEST. While the club has some outstanding views of the Bangkok skyline and a cozy ambiance, the service is mediocre, the drinks are overpriced (which is standard for trendy clubs in Bangkok) and the entertainment fare is not up to my eclectic standards. My overall rating 5.5 out of 10!

My associate in Thailand, Moongmink, is a real hardcore flower and garden enthusiast. Just recently she attended Bangkok’s premier Home & Garden Fair, an annual event organized by Baan Lae Suan, the famous Thai Home and Garden Magazine. Here’s her detailed report:

I feel that the Home and Garden Fair comes at the right time as a lot of Bangkokians are suffering from stress due to political instability and economic slow down. To avoid the crowds, we went there on a weekday. Large areas were provided for the various flower and plant contests - orchids, fern, cactus, etc. – and there were many garden exhibits based on the concept of the English Cottage Garden.

While the focal point of this Garden Fair was on English Cottage Gardens, I am surprised that I didn’t see any farang expats or visitors from England. I am curious as to how many tourists actually attended the Fair; maybe they were out exploring some of the beautiful botanical gardens located in Northern Thailand - Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens in Chiang Mai and Mah Fah Luang Garden at Doi Tung in Chiang Rai Province come to mind.

Overall I enjoyed myself at Garden Fair, however I feel that the organizers should have allocated more space for the English Cottage Garden exhibit and contest. I must admit that this is my favorite garden style - whenever I see an English cottage garden in garden magazines, I often fantasize of a page from a fairly tale where a little girl comes out of nowhere walking through the garden. Typically this type of garden has many walkways, trellises/arbors as well as vine covered fences and an assortment of small shrubs and small trees surrounding a small cottage. Needless to say, standing in front of the exhibited garden corner, my imagination could not work! The exhibit was just too cramped.

Believe it or not, I have dreams of creating a little English cottage garden on my own plot of land in Chiang Dao, a small town located not far from Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. Maybe the fairy tale will come true!

On a recent trip to Northern Thailand, I had the opportunity to visit Fern Paradise, the #1 rated hotel in Chiang Mai by the readers of TripAdvisor. Walking around the property, I felt like I was in the middle of a rainforest as I was surrounded by a sea of green - many species of ferns (as well other plants and trees) grew profusely, and the air (unlike most of Chiang Mai) was so fresh and pure. Dr. Niwat, the owner of this small family run resort, explained to me that the many fern plants cleaned the air, filtering out the pollutants and producing a healthy supply of oxygen. An architect by trade and a fern enthusiast, Dr. Niwat gives every visitor a proper briefing and tour of Fern Paradise. According to the good Doctor, he would like to do his part in saving the world from environmental degradation and pollution through the planting of ferns, plants and trees.

Surveying the property, I didn’t get a chance to visit the rustic looking rooms, but from what I understand they include such modern amenities as cable TV and a DVD player. As a lover of plants and all things green, I was truly impressed by the concept of Fern Paradise. Located only 20 minutes or so from the heart of the Chiang Mai’s tourist zone, Fern Paradise is definitely a breath of fresh air and a return to nature. Rates are from $88 – 148USD per night including daily breakfast.

As a traveler, I am very fussy about restaurant food – it must be tasty, healthfully prepared and of course it must be completely vegetarian (no animal or animal byproducts and no seafood). If you haven’t guess it by now, I’m a full-fledged vegetarian. Thailand is a destination that I have traveled extensively, and there are many restaurants - even outside of Bangkok - that have excellent vegetarian options to choose from. Below is my “Best of Thailand” a partial list of some of my favorite restaurants (excludes Bangkok). My opinion is subjective of course, and my choices are influenced by virtue of being a strict vegetarian. Bon Apetit!

• PAI (Mae Hong Son Province) Na’s - Khun Na can cook up a storm
• KAMALA BEACH (Phuket) Baan Rim Klong - Thai, English and Indian food
• MAE SALONG Salema - A Halal Thai restaurant, runner up for best Pad Thai
• KANCHANABURI Sri Rung Reung - One of my all time faves
• MAE HONG SON Sang Tong Huts - Creative Thai cookery , the chef here is one of the best in Siam
• CHIANG DAO Malee’s Nature Lodge - Excellent family style dinners. Brown rice is the default here
• KOH CHANG Morgan - I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve eaten here!

For the best Thai food in Thailand from a vegetarian’s perspective, here are my personal nominations.

• Best Thai food overall

Plearn Ply, Khao Sok National Park

• Best Tofu Satay

Whole Earth, Chiang Mai - hmmm very tasty peanut sauce

• Best breakfast overall

Sanctuary - an upscale vegetarian & seafood Restaurant in Pai - I had a very delicious plate consisting of scrambled tofu and vegetarian sausages

• Best Pad Thai

Sri Rung Reung -excellent Thai restaurant in Kanchanaburi

BEST OF BANGKOK (Sukhumvit, between Nana BTS and Thong Lo BTS )

• Best Spicy Thai food

Raan Derm on Soi 22 - Very spicy, just how I like it….. Many choices of entrees including spicy vegetable dishes - Morning Glory, Broccoli, Asparagus, Mushroom and Spinach. Brown Rice available

• Best Pan Asian Fusion Food (Vegetarian)

Tamarind Café on Soi 20 -Creative vegetarian food, I have eaten there 10+ times