Archive for the ‘Peru’ Category

Resume of a Traveler

Thursday, June 19th, 2008

papalingHave you ever totaled up the number of countries that you have visited in your lifetime? Furthermore, how many times have you traveled to each particular country? Breaking it down even further, what places/cities have you visited (with at least one overnight stay) in each destination/country? If you answer all these questions carefully, you’ll have put together your own TRAVELER’S RESUME.

Let’s start out with yours truly. My inaugural trip as a traveler happened in Dec. 1973 when I went to Mexico for 3 weeks. Over the ensuing 35 years, I have traveled to 25 different countries. If you look at my RESUME, you will see that I’m very partial to the tropics. Call me the tropical traveler if you may.

NORTH AMERICA:

  • Mexico (18)
  • Puerto Vallarta (3), Mexico City (3), Guadalajara, Villahermosa, Merida,
    Mexican Caribbean – Cancun (4), Playa del Carmen (2) and Tulum; Oaxaca (5),
    Puerto Escondido (5), San Blas(2) Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo,
    Baja California - Cabo San Lucas (4), La Paz and Loreto,
    Costa Alegre - La Manzanilla (2) and Bahia de Navidad

    CARIBBEAN:

  • Jamaica (30+)
  • Kingston, Blue Mountains, Port Antonio, Montego Bay, Ocho Rios, Negril,
    South Coast - Black River, Treasure Beach and Milk River Bath; Cockpit Country,
    Mandeville and Christiana

  • Barbados (6)
  • St. Lucia (2)
  • Antigua
  • Dominican Republic
  • Santo Domingo and Sosua Beach

  • Cuba
  • Havana and Varadero Beach

  • St. Vincent
  • Trinidad
  • St. Maarten/St. Marten
  • Bahamas
  • Nassau and Eleuthera

  • Caribbean/Panama Canal Cruise
  • SOUTH AMERICA:

  • Colombia
  • Bogota, Cartagena and San Andres Island

  • Peru
  • Lima, Cusco, Sacred Valley including Machu Picchu, Amazon basin

  • Ecuador
  • Quito, Otavalo and Mindo

    CENTRAL AMERICA:

  • Costa Rica (6)
  • San Jose (6), Heredia (2), Sarapiqui (2), Manuel Antonio (3), Dominical,
    Pacific Lowlands – Carara ; Guanacaste – Canas and Palo Verdes NP (2), Tamarindo Beach (2), Ocotal and Los Innocentes; Jaco, Tortugero, Monteverde (2), Osa Peninsula, La Fortuna and Arenal (4),
    Caribbean Coast- Cahuita (2) and Puerto Viejo; Wilson Botanical Gardens
    (San Vito), San Gerardo de Dota and Nicoya Peninsula - Playa Samara

  • Guatemala (2)
  • Guatemala City (2), Antigua (2) and Lake Atitlan

    WEST AFRICA:

  • Ghana
  • Accra, Gold Coast, Kumasi

  • Togo
  • Lome

  • Mali
  • Bamako and Mopti

  • Ivory Coast
  • Abidjan

    SOUTHEAST ASIA:

  • Thailand (7)
  • Bangkok (7), Chiang Mai (5), Mae Sa Valley (2), Phuket (3), Koh Lanta, Koh Jum,
    Koh Samui (2), Koh Chang (5), Pattaya (3), Khao Sok National Park, Chiang Rai Province – Doi Tung (2), Mae Salong (2) and Chiang Kong; Kanchanaburi (2),
    Sangkhlaburi, Sakaeo, Sukhothai (2), Ayutthaya and Mae Hong Son Province-Pai (2), Soppong and Mae Hong Son (2)

  • Laos
  • Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Mekong River Cruise

  • Cambodia
  • Siem Reap(Angkor Wat)

    EUROPE

  • England
  • London Area

Please note: Number in Parentheses () indicates the number of visits

Feel free to submit your Travel Resume here!

Luxury trek to Machu Picchu

Thursday, May 29th, 2008

Macchu Piccu in the mistThe view from Wayna Picchu
If you have been following Calypso Island Chronicles, you may remember a post I made about a trip I took to Peru late last summer. The highlight of my trip (and perhaps the most memorable travel experience I have ever had) was an arduous four-hour hike to the top of Waynu Picchu, where at the summit there are magnificent views of the famed Machu Picchu archaeological site. With these wonderful memories still fresh in my mind, I took a special interest in an article that recently appeared in the travel section of San Francisco Chronicle by John Flinn, the travel editor. Entitled The Other Inca Trail, Mr Flinn chronicles his recent experience on a five-day trek on the Salcantay trail to Machu Picchu.

As noted by Mr. Flinn, the Salcantay trek to Machu Picchu is an excellent alternative to the famed Inca Trail, which in recent years has become too popular for its own good - the famous trail has become so heavily traveled and littered with garbage that the Peruvian government has stepped in and imposed strict quotas on its usage. In addition to having far less traffic, the Salcantay trail is higher in elevation, affords more spectacular views and is considered slightly more difficult than the Inca trail. Another option is the Lares trek.

On Mr. Flinn’s trip, there was an upscale twist to the basic trek theme - instead of camping out and eating basic camp grub, the tour group’s accommodations were in small comfortable lodges located along the trail and they dined every night on haute Andean gourmet cuisine to the accompaniment of fine Chilean wines and Pisco sours. Situated at 12,500 ft up in Peruvian Andes, the 12 room Salcantay Lodge - the most deluxe of the hotels on the trek - even had a Jacuzzi, where tour participants could soak their weary muscles after a day of hiking.

The 7 day/6 night ‘luxury’ trek package is offered thru Mountain Lodges of Peru – includes 5 days of hiking with guides and support crew, all meals and accommodations, a guided tour of Machu Picchu and return transfer to Cusco from Aguas Calientes by train/ bus. Cost is $2500 per person double occupancy.

Note: Tour participants should be physically fit as this trek covers 35 miles of walking/hiking in high elevation, mountainous terrain over a period of 5 days

The lizard king of Waynu Picchu

Saturday, April 26th, 2008

lizard king
When “The Three Kings” arrived at the top of Waynu Picchu, we found this little creature sunning himself on a rock while waiting for his next meal.

Peru revisited - Machu Picchu and the Amazon Basin

Thursday, April 24th, 2008

The 2nd half of my journey to Peru was highlighted by an excursion to Machu Picchu, the most extraordinary archaeological site in the Western hemisphere and a 4 day/3 night package tour to the Amazon basin. Arriving at Machu Picchu shortly before sunrise, the renowned archaeological site was shrouded by an early morning fog and had an eerie otherworldly ambiance. After the official tour was over, I ran into two young Peruvian guys – Edward and Armando - who I met at the hot springs at Aguas Calientes the night before, and the three of us hiked to the top of Waynu Picchu, which looms high over the archaeological site. Upon reaching the very top, we proclaimed ourselves as “the Kings of the World”. This hike has to rank as the most memorable experience I have ever had as a traveler.

Leaving the Andean Highlands to the Amazon basin was quite a change a pace. During the next couple of days, a tour guide from the resort took us on daily excursions through the rainforest. Highlights include – climbing to the top of an observation platform in the middle of the rainforest where we were awestruck by tan endless sea of greenery and rewarded by a magnificent Amazon sunset, the Clay Lick - where numerous macaws and parrots gather to feed, the booming chorus of a howler monkey troop that greeted us every morning sometime before dusk , and the astounding Kapok tree, the giant of the rainforest.

Peru revisited - Lima, Cusco and the Sacred Valley

Wednesday, April 23rd, 2008

Get your bags packed we’re going to Peru

In the next two installments of Calypso Island Chronicles, I would like to share with you
some of the highlights and memorable moments of a two week adventure to Peru that
took place in Summer 2007.

I arrived at the Lima airport at approximately 11:00PM, and by the time I got to my hotel in Miraflores, an upscale suburb of Lima, it was close to 12:30AM. As most travelers to Peru do, I stayed only a minimal amount of time in the sprawling capital city of Peru (two nights and one day) before continuing to Cusco, the high altitude tourist Mecca located in the rugged Andes Mountains. My outstanding memories of Lima was the weather (it was fogged in and misty for the most of the day), shopping for a pair of dress shoes at a fancy department store, the presence of licensed moneychangers on the streets and on the morning of my departure, having a cup of Soy Latte at Starbucks at Larcomar, the ritzy new shopping center located on Lima’s rugged (and fogged in) Pacific Coastline.

I spent most of my time in the Cusco area, the Heart and Soul of Peru, including three nights in the Sacred Valley - Pisac and Ollaytantambo - and one night near the famous archaeological site of Machu Picchu. I had the opportunity of being in Pisac for the Sunday artisans market, one of the largest and most colorful Indian markets in South America as well as hiking to some of the most important archaeological sites of the ancient Inca Empire. Leaving Cusco, I flew to Puerto Maldonado, a small city on the periphery of Peru’s Amazon Basin, where I stayed at a small nature resort located in the middle of the rainforest - about two hours downstream from the city. I loved the tranquility and the sounds of nature of the Amazonian wilderness. Part I of this musical travelogue features Lima, Cusco and the Sacred Valley. Enjoy!

The Giant of the Rainforest

Wednesday, March 12th, 2008

Kapok treeIf you have ever walked through a tropical rainforest - whether it be in Costa Rica, the Amazon, Southeast Asia or Africa - I’m sure you have come across the Giant. I know what you’re thinking - no, it is not a tropical version of the Bigfoot but the Giant I am referring to is one of the largest and most spectacular trees in the rainforest - the Kapok tree (Ceiba pentandra).

Native to Tropical America, the kapok can reach a height of over 200 feet. Also known as Ceiba among the indigenous people of the Americas, the kapok is considered to be sacred and is often associated with the supernatural. To the Mayans in particular, the kapok was considered to be a very holy tree and has a special place in their mythology. The kapok has many medicinal uses among native people and it is harvested for a variety of purposes – fertilizer, fuel, down filling for mattresses and pillows etc.

One of the highlights of my trip to Peru was encountering a giant kapok tree in the Amazon basin. I took a group photograph of members in my small tour group against this giant to show how enormously wide the buttressed root system is

Mandela Bar really rocks!

Friday, February 1st, 2008

steep hills of san blasCusco has many trendy and hip bars - of all the clubs that I visited, Mandela Bar with its exotic, tropical African motif was by far my favorite. Located in the tourist ghetto and historic neighborhood of San Blas, Mandela has loads of ambiance and during “the season”, the club really rocks with a variety of local bands and artists performing nightly. On the night that I visited the club, there was a very eclectic two-man band – a female vocalist with a very gruff and gritty voice backed by a guitar player extraordinaire who could pick ‘em with the best. Their repertoire consisted mostly of rock classics of the 60’s and 70’s mixed in with some popular reggae standards as well as a couple of new agey-hip hop tunes. I really the dug the vibe and the music at Mandela. A couple of Pisco Sours really put me into a mellow mood as well…

Home to many local artisans and expat artists, San Blas reminds me a lot of my hometown of San Francisco. with its steep, narrow and cobblestone streets.

More Snippets from Cusco (revised)

Thursday, January 31st, 2008

Cusco's Plaza de Armas”old
As gateway to the otherworldly ruins of nearby Machu Picchu, many tourists flock to Cusco. Located in a valley surrounded by the rugged Andes mountains, Cusco is a very delightful ‘albeit touristy’ colonial city characterized by its steep hills and old world architecture. At 11,200 ft above sea level, it is also one of the highest cities in the world. A real tourist mecca, Old Cusco (the tourist zone) has many outdoor cafes, trendy bars, chic boutiques and restaurants. Most of the hotels, guesthouses and restaurants offer coca tea to their guests to help them combat altitude sickness.

Two peculiarities about Cusco – old town is littered with so many places offering cheap massages that for a moment I thought I was in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Walking around the main plaza, I was constantly pestered by young girls trying to sell me anything from finger warmers to little dolls in addition to trying to recruit me for a massage. I am assuming that the massages were legit, with no extras offered, but then again, I really don’t know! In addition, many people on the street were soliciting tourists to buy cheap cell phones, and I mean muy barrato. I have never experienced something like this in any other city that I have visited in my many years of travel.

I know you’re wondering whether Cusco’s high altitude affected me? Well, after a short flight from Lima, initially I felt a little disoriented, but after a refreshing nap and several cups of coca tea, I was good to go. Did I succumb to the temptation to get a cheap massage? In a word, NO! I did buy some finger warmers though!….

Clay licks and Smart birds

Wednesday, October 3rd, 2007

Parrots at clay lickIt was day three of my rainforest adventure in the Peruvian Amazon. At about 6:00AM in the morning, our tour guide marched us down to the river to a grassy hut to watch the frenetic activity at the nearby clay lick. Peering through my binoculars through one of the small holes of the grassy hut, I could see the many parrots feeding on the clay lick located about 50 yards further downstream. I am guessing that at least 100 more birds had congregated at the lick early this morning, with about 6-7 different species represented. They were a noisy bunch as they flew back and forth from a nearby stand of trees to feed at the lick. Not only does the clay contain highly concentrated, hard to find minerals essential to the parrot’s diet, the clay appears to counteract the poisons in their diet from eating various seeds found in the rainforest.

Peruvian AmazonI was staying at Posadas Amazonas, a medium sized eco-resort located about 1 hour downstream from Puerto Maldonado. One of the tour guides from our lodge informed our small tour group that the mixed flock of parrots feed on the clay lick in the morning, while later in the day 3-4 species of Macaws (large colorful parrots), commandeer the site. Apparently at this lick at least, the smaller parrot species and the macaws have different activity cycles, and they congregate in mutually exclusive groups - the smaller parrots stay together and the macaws stay together.

Looking around me in the small grassy hut, I noticed a middle-aged couple who were following the activity intently at the clay lick armed with huge telephoto lens attached to their cameras. Talking to them later at the lodge, I learned that these folk were from Virginia and they had made numerous forays into the tropics to watch parrots and their kin. They were not the so-called classical Macaws at Clay lickbirdwatchers per se, but parrot enthusiasts. They had absolutely no interest in other species of birds. The lady pointed out to me that the parrots different from most other birds in that they have a zygodactylous toe arrangement - two forward pointing toes and two backward pointing toes. All other birds have three toes pointing forward and one backward. This configuration of feet gives the parrot a better ability to grasp objects. In fact, the lady made it clear that in her opinion, parrots were not really birds at all but deserved a higher and separate classification. She went on to explain to me that the African Gray parrot, which is considered to be “most intelligent” of all the parrots, is capable of thinking and has the intelligence level of a 3 year old child. Furthermore, these unique parrots could not only talk, but could carry on a conversation, albeit very simple, with their human handlers. Interesting…

Much ado about nothing…

Saturday, September 22nd, 2007

Papa MonoIt happened while Papa Mono was at Posada Amazonas, an all-inclusive jungle lodge not far from Puerto Maldonado located in Peru’s Amazonian basin. It could have happened anywhere in the world, but it happened here - in Papa Mono’s stomping grounds. Papa Mono went to the public lounge to hook up his laptop to the lodge’s telephone line in order to access the Internet. Sitting down the couch, I asked the tourist who was fiddling on his palm pilot whether he was using the line - the answer was no. I was taken aback when this tourist starts nosing into my business whereupon he asked me, “Unless you’re monitoring your stock portfolio, why can’t you wait until you get home for the Internet. What could be so important anyway?” Well, I was about to tell to this intrusive character - that it is his none of his business, why doesn’t he chill and eat a banana or two, but political correctness and diplomacy got the better of me so I answered him very civilly - “Papa Mono needs to make an entry into his travel blog”. Apparently satisfied with my answer, this boorish lout (double entendre) with palm pilot in hand proceeded to call out to some young preadolescent girls trying to recruit them as playmates for his daughters. Papa Mono reckons that he must have been from British Columbia, Canada. No American would have acted as boorishly as this!

It happened while boarding an early morning flight on American airlines on 9/11 from Quito to Miami. As I walked thru the first class compartment of the aircraft, I happened to overhear a somewhat unusual request from a middle-aged American passenger who was sitting with his wife - Calling the stewardess over, the bloke asked her “When you have some time, could you please bring us a glass of champagne”. The time was about 8:00AM - I guess “Mr. Big Shot” had to wait awhile for his champagne, as the flight was delayed an hour or so because of a problem with the jet’s fuel pump. Oh well…