I met a very affable gentleman by the name Paul at my guesthouse in Ouro Preto, Brazil. Paul was an Irishman who fell in love with Brazil and had been living in Belo Horizonte for the last 10 years or so. In the mornings over breakfast, Paul and I would discuss a variety of things – Brazilian Culture, Ecotourism and world affairs.

One morning, Paul looked very distraught and told me about a terrifying experience he had the night before. As Paul explained, he had returned to his small room to go to bed. Upon turning on the lights, he discovered a huge furry spider about the size of his fist crawling on the ceiling above his bed.

Like most people, Paul was very fearful about spiders(Arachnophobia). Horrified at the prospect of this furry creature crawling into his bed at night, Paul decided to take the offensive. With the heel of his shoe, he bludgeoned the spider to death.

After hearing the story and his description of the creature, I told Paul that he probably killed a Tarantula, one of the largest spiders in the Arachnid family. Most of the tarantula species are relatively harmless despite their ferocious appearance.

I was somewhat upset at Paul for killing the poor Tarantula – after all if he was uncomfortable with the spider in his room, he could have trapped it into a container and released it outside. As a nature lover, I would have welcomed the tarantula as a visitor to my room. I would have conducted a photoshoot before setting the creature free.

In a way, I could understand why Paul killed the tarantula. He felt that that the large spider had invaded his personal space. I am sure if Paul had encountered the tarantula outside in its natural habitat, he would have respected the creature’s right to live. After discussing my philosophy of nature and all living things, I told the Irishman that I forgave him.

Funny thing - In Portuguese, the name for Tarantula is Caranguejeira while in Spanish and English, the same word applies - Tarantula

• Pickpockets, Purse snatchers & petty crime

  While La Paz is not one of the most dangerous cities in South America, tourists are often victimized by pickpockets and purse-snatchers. Thieves often work in teams and utilize a variety of ruses to separate you from your valuables. Be especially careful when strolling through crowded marketplaces.

• Zebras

  Downtown La Paz is usually choked with traffic. To help referee traffic at the busiest intersections, the city employs a special squad of Zebras

• Medical Clinics

  If you need medical attention or travel inoculations, your best bet is to go any number of of private medical clinics scattered around La Paz. The best clinic in my humble opinion is Clinica del Sur located in Zona Sur, the more affluent part of La Paz. Service is very fairly efficient and relatively affordable.

• Haircuts

  Believe it or not, you can get a haircut in central La Paz for as little $2.50USD. In Zona Sur - the upscale part of La Paz - a haircut will cost you more monies. I paid about $7.00 at a middlebrow beauty salon in Zona Sur. More upscale establishments charge even more than this!

• Altitude Sickness

  Many tourists have problems with the high altitude of La Paz, which at 11,800 feet above sea level is the highest capital in the world. You can combat altitude sickness – symptoms are headaches, dizziness, nausea and diarrhea - by drinking several cups of Coca tea during your stay.

• Cocaine bars

  Many establishments that cater to tourists are now freely offering cocaine (for a price of course) in addition to the standard array of libations and drinks. Be careful, as cocaine is still illegal in Bolivia.

• Vegetarian restaurants

  There are many vegetarian restaurants in La Paz. One of the better places for tasty vegetarian meals is Namaste Café and art gallery. One of the older hotels in downtown La Paz (forgot the name) also offers a vegetarian buffet for lunch. Cost was about $3.00USD. Very Cheap!

There is no doubt in my mind that Iguassu Falls, which straddles Brazil and Argentina, is a real tourist trap. People from all over the world include Iguassu in their itinerary, with the preponderance of the visitors from Brazil and Argentina. If you have followed Calypso Island Chronicles, you may have gathered that I’m not really fond of tourist traps.

Despite the fact that I read all the hype about these famous falls, I really didn’t know what to expect. I had seen many waterfalls during my travels to the tropics, but none of them could compare with the grandeur and awesome power of Iguassu. Iguassu totally blew me away! Some people, who have been the world famous Niagara Falls, say that Iguassu with its 275 cascades is far more spectacular.

If you’re arriving from the Brazilian side, the Falls are located just outside Foz do Iguacu, a city of over 325,000 inhabitants. Getting to the falls from city center is quite easy as there is frequent bus service to the falls - there is no reason to take a taxi. Cost is about 1.50 reals. The falls are hidden from view and set back from the highway in a heavily forested area.

Once you pay admission for entrance to the falls at the Iguacu Information Center, you jump on a Double decker jitney which will take you to different trails and venues – there are many different ways to see the falls, including renting a mountain bike, joining a tour group with a bilingual guide or by taking a helicopter tour.

Like the majority of the visitors, I opted to see the falls by taking the easiest walking trail, which ends up at the Iguassu Cafe and souvenir shop. The trail is about 3 km long with designated vista points for taking the best photographs. To be honest with you, there is no reason to hire a guide for the walking trail.

While viewing Iguassu Falls from the Brazil side is best for panoramic views, if you want to see the falls up close and personal, I suggest you also visit from the Argentinian side. From there you can either boat tour - inflatable rafts are used - which goes underneath the cascades or you can choose between a number of walking trails.

As I was in Iguassu for only 3 days/2 nights, I did not have time to visit the falls from the Argentinian side. Sure wish I had extra time! To see the falls from both sides, I recommend that you allow yourself a good four days. Iguassu falls? A must see!

I talked to a gentleman who manned the travel desk at my hotel in La Paz, Bolivia about my travel itinerary. When he found out that I was traveling to Rio de Janeiro, he cautioned me on the dangers of this internationally famous city. In particular, he warned me to be very wary of the seductive charms of Brazilian girls, and while walking the streets, to be on the lookout for pickpockets and potential muggers. He said that it was very common for tourists to be held up at knifepoint by thieves in Rio. In addition, he suggested that I don’t walk around with my handbag draped around my shoulder, as it could only lead to trouble.

Needless to say, I heeded his advice. When I ventured outside my guesthouse in Santa Teresa, a hilly bohemian neighborhood in Rio which is home to many artists, I carried as little monies as possible and left my Thai handbag in my hotel. Surrounding this middle class neighborhood were a number of favelas, home to the poorer classes.

Walking around Santa Teresa, I observed numerous policemen patrolling the neighborhood; sometimes there were 3-4 policemen stationed on one block. In addition, while walking to and from my guesthouse which was located down a steep hill, many of the passerbys looked at me while pointing to their eyes - sort of a warning about the presence of thieves and pickpockets in the neighborhood.

One night, I stopped at a local bar just up the street from my guesthouse. The owner, who spoke fluent English, also warned me to be very careful and told me about an incident which happened not too long ago. A band of armed thieves burst into his bar and relieved all his patrons of their valuables and monies at gunpoint. Unfortunately he couldn’t identify any of the men as they all wore stockings over their faces. When I told him about the very strong presence of police in the neighborhood, he laughed and said the police do not do anything to apprehend these criminals.

When I relocated to Copacabana Beach several days later, I was very aware of some dodgy looking characters while walking at night on poorly illuminated streets to the Bus Stop and on the way to underground train. I guess I was lucky as nothing happened to me.

And the Brazilian Garotas (girls)? Wouldn’t you believe it but not even one Brazilian lady approached me. Maybe I should have shaved or worn a different cologne?

I have discovered PARADISE in Barra Grande, a small beach town located in the state of Bahia, Brazil. Walking around Barra Grande, you will see people of every shade imaginable. As in most of Brazil, the blending of the races in Barra – black, white and Indian - is the norm. Although most of these people are relatively poor, it seems that everybody is happy and more concerned with enjoying life than with making monies.

Predictably, the whiter people in Barra Grande are the most affluent, however there doesn’t seem be any racial prejudice or discrimination, as people mix freely and seem to live in harmony. People are always smiling – there is no soliciting, begging or hustling and no hostility, and from I can see, little or no crime.

Tourism and fishing are very important to the livelihood of Barra Grande. Up till now, the community has been spared from the ravages of mass tourism – overdevelopment, land speculation and rising prices. Currently there are no large, fancy resorts; scattered around the area are a number of relatively small upmarket hotels and inexpensive guesthouses.

Definitely off the beaten path, what keeps tourist numbers in check is its relative inaccessibility. Located on the Marau Peninsula, it takes a good 6 hours with a combination of bus, ferry and motorboat to reach Barra from the capital of Salvador. During the low season (May-November) Barra is relatively peaceful and quiet; however in the high season, from November-March, the village really jumps as most of the guesthouses and hotels are filled to capacity with mostly Brazilian tourists and a smattering of foreigners.

Besides hanging out at the beach – there are some lovely but not very spectacular beaches on the bay side - and snorkeling, there really isn’t too much to do during the daytime. At night, many of the locals (and tourists) gather at the town square to share some drinks (and stories) with each other. Surrounding the town square, there are a number of fairly nice restaurants as well as pizzerias that cater mostly to the tourist trade.

Barra Grande truly is Paradise – a real oasis in the middle of a troubled world governed by money and power. However once the land developers, real estate agents and hotel conglomerates discover Barra, this small paradise may be in trouble.

Like most big cities in Latin America (and around the world), you have to be very wary of pickpockets and purse-snatchers when walking around Bolivia’s capital city of La Paz, especially in the busy tourist zone. Besides the usual precautions, make yourself inconspicuous as possible – don’t be flaunting fancy jewelry, gold chains, expensive rolex watches and make an effort to conceal your valuables.

By all means leave your passport in your safe deposit box at the hotel (just carry a paper copy) and be extra vigilant when walking in a very congested area or when standing in a crowd while watching street musicians or artists.

Pickpockets and purse-snatchers target mostly tourists, but I have heard where locals (especially ladies) have also fallen victim to purse-snatchers as well. These thieves usually work in pairs or in small teams and have devised a number of clever ruses and strategies to their craft.

During my many years as a traveler, street thieves have never victimized me, but I guess there is always a first time – and my first time happened in La Paz. Here’s what happened…

I was filming some street musicians with my small videocam in the heart of the tourist zone and a small crowd started to gather around. All of a sudden, somebody bumped me and I momentarily lost my balance. At the time, I had a camera bag draped around my left shoulder – inside the bag was my Olympus 570UZ digital point & shoot camera, valued at about $380USD (new).

While I was distracted by the bump, a 2nd person - a young girl - quickly unzipped the bag (maybe I had forgotten to zip it up), reached inside and snatched my camera. A man in the crowd happened to see the robbery take place, and told me that he saw the young girl and her accomplice quickly flee the scene. No doubt, the two culprits were professionals at their craft.

Oh well, shit happens. I did not let this mishap spoil my trip. Fortunately, I carried a 2nd digital camera with me to South America as a backup.

Believe me, La Paz is a lot safer than most cities that I have been to. From what I understand, pickpockets and thieves in La Paz achieve their objectives mostly by stealth and guile without utilizing weapons or resorting to force. On the other hand in Rio de Janeiro, many tourists are held up at knifepoint.

Bottom Line – While robberies and theft can happen in La Paz, I believe it is one of the safer cities in Latin America

Over the years, I have traveled extensively to five countries in South American – Colombia (1984), Peru and Ecuador (2007) and lastly Bolivia and Brazil (2010). I must admit that I had a wonderful time in all these countries (I always have a great time wherever I go), but if I had to select only one of these countries for a return visit, it would have to be BOLIVIA.

Although Bolivia does not have any beach towns or seaside resorts by virtue of being a landlocked country, there are so many fascinating and interesting places to keep you busy for weeks on end.

On my recent trip to Bolivia, I barely scratched the surface but I managed to visit four unique and different areas - La Paz and Lake Titicaca (the Altiplano), Rurrenabaque and the lowland rainforests of the Amazon basin as well as Samaipata, a small mountain resort in Southern Bolivia.

What makes Bolivia so desirable to me as a traveler - besides being the most affordable country in South America - is that much of the country is still relatively undeveloped and has escaped from the excesses of mass tourism. Did I mention Bolivia is very cheap? I’ve been to Thailand many times, and I think your monies will go just as far in Bolivia.

Last but not least, the dogs in Bolivia are very clean and congenial (and there are many) - especially the dogs in highlands – and they have very few fleas. You’ve probably guessed by now, that I have special affinity with dogs.

By all means, check out the video below. Entitled Poco Picante, it captures some of my most memorable and outlandishly amusing moments in Bolivia. ENJOY!

I heard from some fellow travelers, that ‘free’ cocaine was being offered by a number of tourist-oriented bars in La Paz, Bolivia. I was ready to dismiss these reports as being just hearsay until I was offered to snort some cocaine by the bartender at a popular bar in the tourist zone of La Paz. After finishing my beer and ready to head out the door, he suggested I go into the back room of the bar and do a line or two.

From what I have read, the bars pay off the local authorities in order to sell cocaine to their mostly tourist clientele.

Even though I am not averse to snorting cocaine every now and then, I really wasn’t tempted to indulge even if the bartender’s offer was sincere. After all, there was always the possibility I could be walking into a trap – as a tourist in one of the poorest countries in South America, I represented somebody’s big payday. In Bolivia - like everywhere in the world - Cocaine is against the law!

Who knows - after accepting his hospitality maybe the bartender would be calling one of his cronies in the police department. Then I would be faced with paying a heavy fine/bribe in order to avoid possible imprisonment. Personally, I would not want to take that sort of risk.

Furthermore, I did not travel to South America to fool around with drugs – not my sort of trip.

Wouldn’t you know it but while I was staying in the small mountain resort of Samaipata in Southern Bolivia, a fellow tourist also told me about a “hip local bar” (forgot the name) that was offering cocaine to its customers. I told him, I would pass on that one.

I understand these Cocaine Bars are a relatively new thing in Bolivia, having started sometime in 2009.

Travel is very rewarding. Every day is an adventure (that’s for sure)
as you meet new people, have new experiences and visit foreign
and exotic new places. From my experience, there is never, ever a dull moment. That is precisely why I love to travel.

This short video entitled “Muy Picante” captures some of my most outlandish and humorous not to mention some of my x-rated moments on a recent trip to Brazil.

After watching this video, you might conclude that I have a fascination with dogs. Admittedly I have a special relationship with man’s best friend as well as other creatures. This traveler just likes to have fun!!!

I hope you are amused and entertained as you step into my world – the world of a traveler. Me abraca a me beija! ENJOY!

When I was in La Paz earlier this year, I looked for a medical clinic where I could receive my 3rd and final inoculation for rabies. I received my first two inoculations in the USA prior to my departure. Not too many travelers bother with preventive shots for rabies when traveling to Bolivia (or other countries, where rabies is prevalent), but the CDC in USA recommended that all travelers to Bolivia (and Brazil) get the 3 part inoculation, so I decided to go by “the book.”

La Paz has a number of private medical clinics that cater to expats as well as tourists. The first clinic I went to was Clinica Alemana (The German Clinic) located not too far from the busy downtown area. What a total waste of time! The small clinic was severely understaffed; it seemed there was only one doctor and nurse on duty - she doubled as the receptionist. As the nurse couldn’t administer the rabies shot, I asked her how long would it take before I could see the doctor, but she couldn’t give me a definite time frame. Even though there were only two other people in the waiting room, I figured I was in for long wait, so I decided to walk out the door.

Upon recommendation from somebody at the hotel front desk, I decided to go the Clinica del Sur, a medical clinic in an upscale neighborhood in Zona Sur. Service was fast and relatively affordable (about $45USD), and most of the staff had some facility with English. On the way out, I met some young bloke from Holland who had broken his leg when his bus toppled over on the perilous Yunga pass.

The other alternative for travel inoculations is to have a doctor pay you a visit at your hotel. Most hotels in La Paz have access to these private, mobile doctors who specialize in travel inoculations – a little more costly, but very convenient.

In hindsight, I am glad I went to the Clinica del Sur as I had the opportunity to see the more affluent neighborhoods of La Paz. Highly recommended!