On my most recent trip to Thailand, Khun Moongmink - my friend from Bangkok - joined me on November 30, 2009 in the Northern city of Nan. For the next 10 days or so, she accompanied me as I showed her parts of Northern Thailand – Nan Province and Phu Lang Ka - that she was totally unfamiliar with. Having traveled to these “neck of the woods” the year before, I guess you could say that I – an outsider and a farang - was her tour guide.

In her story of meeting me in NAN, she affectionately refers to me as Papa Mono (the Big Monkey), my nickname in South America. Read on…

In late November, I went on a 10-day tour in the north of Thailand. The tour started in NAN, where I joined Papa Mono (aka Hanumann), my slightly crazed American friend who had arrived there several days before me. He enjoys visiting Thailand every year; I can say that he definitely knows my country better than me (and most other Thai people), especially when it come to the regional areas of the North.

I arrived at the Nan Bus Terminal late in the afternoon whereupon Papa Mono greeted me on his rented bicycle along with an old Thai guy standing beside his Samlor (tricycle taxi), ready to transfer me to my hotel. It ‘s nice to meet ”an old buddy” again – a tricycle which had long disappeared from Bangkok street for over twenty years.

Hopping into the Samlor, the driver followed Papa Mono as he rode joyfully on his bicycle. Acting as if he was a local tour guide, Papa Mono navigated through downtown Nan, greeting every street dog (maah) along the way, waving ’hi’ and causally chatting to many passersbys. Apart from his western look, one would probably think that my farang friend was a local Thai living there for many years.

I wish you could imagine this scene - a cheerful western guide, biking ahead of an old Samlor with a middle aged Thai lady as passenger. A native old man wearing khakis and a battered straw hat drives the Samlor loaded with heavy baggage. Using all his strength, the old man follows Papa Mono through the streets of Nan, as he diligently carries me to my hotel. Such memories are priceless!

I hopped into a taxi at the BTS station at Thong Lo in Bangkok.
The driver’s name was Sid, a friendly chap in his early 60’s. Sid started the conversation by asking the usual question - “Where are you from?” For most Thai people, this is like saying hello!

I gave Sid my standard ‘where you from answer’ – “I am from many different places”, which of course threw him a bit off balance – as it does to most Thai people - as they don’t know what to make of it.

But being a nice guy, I decided to give Sid a break by adding that I’m originally from San Francisco. Breaking out into a beatific smile, Sid replied - “Oh you’re an American. America good!” Thai people like Americans in the post Bush era!

The conversation drifted into various aspects of American pop culture and history. The conversation went like this:

Sid - I like John F Kennedy.
Me - Oh yeah, Kennedy was a real playboy, had lots of girlfriends.
Sid - I like that

I mentioned that Teddy, the last Kennedy brother, passed on earlier in the year to which Sid replied, “I know”.

Sid - Do you like Edwin Pechuri?
(I really couldn’t figure out what Sid was saying, but it sounded like Edwin Pechuri)
Me – Edwin Pechuri? Who is he?

Sid asked me repeatedly, whether I liked Edwin Pechuri (or something like that), but for the life of me, I really didn’t understand him!

Me - What does this Edwin Pechuri do?
Sid – He’s famous singer.

I thought for a couple for a couple of moments, trying to figure out what Sid was saying and who was this Edwin Pechuri character that he kept referring to. All of a sudden I had a light bulb moment in my brain, and I asked him “ Oh, do you mean Elvis Presley (sounds like Edwin Pechuri)?” Sid smiled and said, “Yeah that’s who I am talking about.”

We both laughed as Sid finally reached my destination and let me out. As I enjoyed the ride and the conversation with Sid, I gave him a tip of 10 baht over the meter fare.

Morale of the story – For most Thai people, speaking English with correct pronunciation is very tricky. On the flip side, I can only imagine, how difficult it is for Thai people to understand me, when I try to speak Thai.
Same, same but different!

HAPPY NEW YEAR! Having just returned from a 43-day odyssey to Southeast Asia, I would start off the New Year by sharing with you some random observations (and thoughts) of a traveler

• Be Safe! When storing your monies in the hotel safe, make sure to have an accurate count of your traveler checks and currency before trusting it to the hotel. This is especially true, when all the front desk people have access to the safe. I believe that I was victimized twice in Thailand on my last trip – I was missing the equivalent of $150USD in currency in one instance and $200USD in traveler’s checks in another. Oh well, shit happens!
  
• My favorite city in THAILAND continues to be Nan. At least 4-5 new coffee shops have opened up in the last year – reflective of Nan’s increasing popularity as a tourist destination
• One of the most spectacular views that I have experienced during my travels is from the top of Penang Hill in Malaysia. At an elevation of 800 meters above sea level, the view of Penang Island is absolutely incredible!



• Singapore is FINE! A small island city of about 5 million people, not only is Singapore one of the cleanest cities in the world, but its mass transit system is heads and shoulders above anything I have seen. If all the nations in the world, adopted, Singapore’s laws (and fines) towards littering, this world would be a lot better place.
• Compared to Thailand and Malaysia, Singapore is somewhat on the expensive side!
• Most currency exchange bureaus in Singapore(and Malaysia) will not cash traveler’s checks – you will have to go to the bank. On the other hand, it is very easy to cash traveler’s checks in Thailand as the banks operate most of the many currency exchange bureaus.



• Who let the dogs out? Compared to Singapore and Malaysia, Thailand is overrun by dogs, especially in the rural countryside and in small villages. Most of the dogs are your typical Thai mutts - short, stocky with closely cropped tan or yellow fur. Popular pedigreed dogs include Shiatsus, Lhasa Apsos, Pomeranians, Toy poodles and Pugs!
• In THAILAND, where at least 93% population is Buddhist, you’ll hear Christmas music being played in most of the major department store complexes in Bangkok and in the major tourist centers up until New Years Day. They do this primarily to accommodate the tourists, most of whom are Christians.
• Walking into a Starbucks across from my hotel in Bangkok on Dec. 29, they were playing the traditional Christmas fluff until I aggressively suggested they change the music. LOL