Archive for September, 2008

The American Traveler in Asia & the McDonald’s Index

Tuesday, September 30th, 2008

Papa LingConde Nast Traveler is a wonderful magazine. In every monthly edition, I usually find at least a couple of articles that I enjoying reading and which are also good material for a blog. The latest edition’s focus is on ASIA; not only do they have a profile on the exotic and relatively unknown “Stan countries” of Central Asia – Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Kyrgzstan, and Tajikistan - all of which were former republics of the now defunct Soviet Union but there is an interesting foldout section called “Occidental Tourists”. This article features a short bio on the 16 most popular Asian destinations for the American traveler. As part of the bio for each country, they list the total number of U.S. visitors for 2007, the number of daily nonstop flights from the U.S. and the cost of a Big Mac (with the percentage difference from the U.S. price of $3.57), which I have coined the McDonald’s Index.

Funny thing, I never have eaten a Big Mac in my entire life, and when I see a McDonald’s in a foreign country, my stomach gets a little queasy. Fortunately not all of the countries on Conde Nast’s popularity list have been infiltrated by the ‘King of Fast Foods’. Curiously enough, India, the 3rd most popular country with 697,000 US visitors (2006), has the least inexpensive Big Macs at $1.31, which is 63% less than a Big Mac in the USA. Being #1 on the McDonald’s index may be a general indicator of the buying power of the US dollar. You may be wondering, what was the most popular Asian country for Americans? The answer is China with 1,710,300 US visitors (these figures are tabulated from 2006).

The complete list (based on number of American visitors in 2007 unless as noted):

#1 China (1,710,300)* #2 Japan (815,900) #3 India (696,739) * #4 Thailand (682,000) #5 Philippines (679,000) #6 Vietnam (412,301) #7 Singapore (409,000) #8 Malaysia (205,000) #9 Cambodia (137,539), #10 Indonesia (131,000) #11 Pakistan (126,168) * #12 Nepal (19,925)* #13 Bangladesh (13,422)* #14 Mongolia (9,649)** #15 Myanmar (6,309) * and #16 Bhutan (5018)*

*Figures are based on US visitors in 2006
** Figures based on US visitor in 2004

A couple of observations - China by far was the most popular Asian destination for Americans with Japan a distant 2nd; India, Thailand, Philippines were closely bunched together at 3, 4 and 5 respectively; Vietnam is rapidly becoming a favorite destination with Americans and note the steep drop-off for those countries that were in the 12-16 positions. A glaring omission from the list was Laos, Thailand’s neighbor to the Northeast.

I would like to institute “a Starbucks Index” – for each country in a geographical area (Asia as an example), I would like to do an inventory of the total number of Starbuck stores and the average price for a cup of joe (coffee). In Bangkok, Thailand, there are numerous Starbucks scattered around the city. Anybody know how many?

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Fortune Tellers control Thailand’s destiny

Friday, September 26th, 2008

Papa LingA lot of people in Thailand (both rich and poor) believe in the ability of the Fortune teller to predict the future. In fact, I know professional people in Bangkok who pay a small sum of monies for a consultation with their local fortune teller or tarot card reader to give them guidance and direction with their love life and business affairs. Even political leaders have been known to consult with a fortune teller – ex P.M. Thaksin and the coup leaders who deposed his government are two prime examples. Usually, the fortune teller is a very insightful and intuitive person and is able to tell their customer what they want to hear. For some inexpensive entertainment and fun, a couple of years ago I paid 20 baht to have my fortune read by a local tarot card reader on the corner of Sukhumvit and Soi 24 in Bangkok.

Just recently, my friend in Thailand told me about a very dire prediction made by one of the most preeminent fortune tellers/psychics in Bangkok who coincidentally hosts his own TV show. Can you believe that? According to this highly regarded psychic, sometime in October, there will be a devastating earthquake in central Thailand - the earthquake will create a break in the Kanchanaburi Dam located about 90 minutes away from Thailand’s capital city of Bangkok, and the whole area will be flooded. Bangkok will be just one big lake! Furthermore this fortune teller suggests that people should evacuate Bangkok during the month of October and flee to Isaan or Northern Thailand.

His prediction is based on this season’s heavy rainfall which has caused many of the outlying provinces to be flooded. A big earthquake could indeed cause the dam to crack and release a tremendous volume of water flooding the plains of the central region of which Bangkok is the major population center. Even without an earthquake, many people fear the dam will overflow due to the huge volume of water that it is holding in.

Upon hearing this story, I couldn’t stop myself from laughing. I told her that I too believed a catastrophic earthquake would take place. But unlike the renowned fortune teller, I believe this event will take place sometime in the next 2000 years and that no one could predict the exact time. Furthermore, most likely both of us would be long dead and into our 37th reincarnation on our way to nirvana when the big flood happens.

On my upcoming trip to Thailand in November, I better bring my snorkeling gear.

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Reminiscing about Quito

Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008

I have visited a number of big cities in South America including Bogotá and Cartagena in (Colombia), Lima and Cuzco (Peru) and Quito (Ecuador). While Cartagena, located on the Caribbean Coast of Colombia, was utterly charming and romantic, I would choose Quito as being the most beautiful city overall. Located at about 9,200 feet above sea level, Quito’s physical setting is absolutely magnificent - Ecuador’s capital city straddles a long narrow valley which is situated between two mountain ranges.

Old town Quito, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, reminded me a lot of me a lot of hometown of San Francisco, with its steep cobblestoned streets and old world charm. Walking through the old quarter, there are many streetside cafés and small shopping enclaves that feature a variety of very tasteful boutiques and art galleries. On the last night that I was in Quito, I hired a taxi to take me up to El Panecillo, the large hill topped by a statue of La Virgen de Quito. Located a couple miles outside the old city, the view from this vantage point after sunset is absolutely heavenly.

If you’d like to get a taste of Quito, I have put together a short slideshow video of about 3 minutes in duration. Quito es magnifico!

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The measuring stick for a Seasoned Traveler

Sunday, September 21st, 2008

Papa MonoI consider myself a seasoned traveler – however the total number of countries that I have visited in my short life is only 25. Now that is considerably more than a lot of people that I know, but really falls short compared to some seasoned travelers that I have met on the road. See Resume of a Traveler.

I attribute my rather low total due to the fact that unlike other travelers, I have never been to Europe, where there are so many countries packed into a small geographical area – Spain, France, Germany, Italy, Holland, Denmark, Belgium, Andorra, Poland, Portugal, Italy, Switzerland, Andorra, Austria etc - and I have been a repeat traveler to many of the countries that I have visited – that includes Jamaica (over 30 times), Mexico (about 20 times), Thailand (8 times) and Costa Rica and Barbados (7 times each) rather than visiting a new destination from trip to trip. Another way of looking at this is that I favor quality over quantity.

Now I was really blown away by the travel resume of Dean Oman – this young fellow has visited over 100 countries. Now Dean, who chronologically is a little younger than yours truly, looks to be the measuring stick of a seasoned traveler. For really interesting reading check out his World according to Dean - travel summaries and maps to over 100 different countries. Some very interesting reading; I have bookmarked his site.

Looks like I have a little bit of catching up to do in the 2nd half of my life, if i want to reach my goal of 100 countries. Oh well

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Ecuador Retrospective

Friday, September 19th, 2008

It’s been over a year since I returned from my epic 2½ week adventure to South America, where I visited both Peru and Ecuador. The memories will always be with me, as I have already produced two travel videos on PERU, and I have just completed a very artistic travel piece on ECUADOR. The new video features the older section of Quito - a UNESCO World Heritage site; Otavalo - two hours away from Quito and site of the most popular Indian artisan market in Ecuador (with the magnificent Mount Imbabura looming over the town), and Mindo- a popular mountain resort, and a longtime favorite with birdwatching enthusiasts. I am hoping to return to South America sometime next year (funds willing) Brazil is next on my list.

Please note: The travel video on Ecuador is a wee bit long at 11 minutes but I suggest you watch it in its entirety. It is that good!

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The Night of the Crawling Dinner

Monday, September 15th, 2008

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The following story is based on events which happened in Negril, Jamaica in summer 1982. The names of people involved have not been changed protect the innocent or naïve. Although this happened over 26 years ago, I remember it as if it was yesterday. Depending on your sensibilities, you may alternately cry, laugh or be shocked by what I have to tell you.

Papa Ling having snackIt was a bright Sunday in Montego Bay - Reggae Sunsplash, Jamaica’s international music festival, had just concluded. Most of my tour group were flying home on this day, however about 30 clients would accompany me by bus to Negril, some 50 miles to the west, to recuperate and chill out after the festival. I stayed at Lamar’s, a humble motel on Negril’s West End. I befriended two of clients, Dr. D and his girlfriend, Carol, who were also staying at Lamar’s. Dr. D was an affable chap in his early 30’s, a Grateful Dead aficionado and we hit it off pretty well.

About the 2nd or 3rd day in Negril, Dr. D, Carol and yours truly were enjoying a cold Guinness in Lamar’s outdoor bar—café, when somebody offered us some freshly baked chocolate ganja cake. Now, I usually don’t partake in marijuana, but throwing caution to the wind, I decided to have to eat a large slice of this fragrant smelling cake. Dr. D and Carol followed suit. About 40 minutes later, it was getting dark and the three of us decided to venture out for dinner to nearby Pewee’s, a nice outdoor restaurant on the cliffs. So far, nobody was feeling any effect from the ganja. Dr. D and his ladyfriend ordered a grilled lobster plate and I ordered a vegetarian dish along with some cold Guinness. After awhile dinner was finally served. It seems that the three of us were getting quite giddy - must have been the marijuana kicking in. Dr. D was about to take a bite out of his lobster, when he announced, “Look, the Lobster is crawling on my plate”. Both Carol and I laughed, and I remarked it must be the effect of the ganja cake we ate earlier in the evening. Come to think of it, I distinctively remember it getting hotter and I felt a sensation of smoke in the air. We finished our dinner without further incident, laughing and joking the whole time.

After dinner, we walked up the street to Kaisers, where they were having a live Reggae Show. A group of young Jamaican men congregated at the entrance. We were about to enter the club and pay the cover charge, when Dr. D totally freaked out. He turned around to us and with a very frightened look on his face, he announced that he was afraid someone at the entrance was going to stab him with a knife. Looking at Carol, I told her that the ganja had caused Dr. D to become totally paranoid. Carol understood there was no real danger, only in Dr. D’s mind, but it was decided in the best interests of Dr. D, that she would return with him to Lamar’s and forego the live show.

Bidding Dr. D and Carol adieu, I paid the cover charge and entered the club. After having a rum punch, I surveyed the scene and noticed quite a few very attractive working gals around the club, looking very sexy with their micro miniskirts clinging tightly to their thighs. I was becoming very hot now and I started feeling “the body heat” from the Jamaican ladies. My heart was racing and it was becoming difficult for me to move - it felt like I was paralyzed. Feeling frightened and very vulnerable, it took quite an effort for me to leave Kaiser’s. Once I was out onto the street, I walked safely back to Lamar’s in the darkness of the night.

Morale of the story - Marijuana affects people in different ways. For some people, the herb will bring a sense of euphoria and peacefulness; for other people, it makes them get very giddy. On the other extreme, some people grow very paranoid - their feelings and sensations become overamplified. Be careful when indulging in this potent herb!!!

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The most distasteful beach resorts in the world

Friday, September 12th, 2008

Licking assActually the title of this post should be the most distasteful beach resorts that I have visited. Of course, my opinion is subjective and you may disagree with my choices. After all beauty is in the eye of the beholder and one man’s garbage is another man’s treasure. Please note: I have never been to Honolulu, so that’s why it didn’t make my list.
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  1. Cancun (Mexico)
    The only redeeming things about this mega resort are the magnificent white sand beaches and turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea. The sand really looks like freshly fallen snow. The resort area is very synthetic and plastic - one tacky high-rise hotel after another, many built to resemble a Mayan pyramid, march up and down the strip like ants. The resort area is saturated with noisy, juvenile bars, discothèques and nightclubs, and sprawling shopping complexes clutter the landscape.
  2. Pattaya (Thailand)
    A favorite haven of sex tourists and budget European package tourists, Pattaya has to be one of the sleaziest beach resorts in the world. The beaches are polluted, traffic is horrendous and the landscape has been stripped of its natural vegetation to accommodate an overwhelming number of noisy beer bars, strip clubs, Gogo bars, nightclubs and cheap hotels and shops. One encounters way too many loud and obnoxious Tigers selling their bodies. The only redeeming thing about Pattaya is your monies will go a long way there.
  3. Puerto Vallarta (Mexico)
    At one time this used to be a very picturesque and charming resort town. Not any more. Due to overdevelopment, it has become one big sprawling amorphous blob spreading up and down the coast. Like Cancun, there are far too many shopping centers, noisy bars and discothèques. One redeeming thing about PV - at least you have the feeling of being in Mexico and not some plastic, fabricated resort.
  4. Patong-Karon, Phuket (Thailand)
    Phuket is Thailand’s internationally acclaimed playground; outside of Bangkok, more tourists travel here than anywhere else in the Land of Smiles. Patong-Karon, the most popular resort areas, are cluttered with shops, shops and more shops. Patong is a more sanitized (and tamer) version of Pattaya with a good selection of beer bars, discothèques and strip clubs and lots of Thai gals selling sex. Can be a fun place for a couple of days and at least, the beaches are halfway decent.
  5. Jaco Beach (Costa Rica)
    Costa Rica’s tackiest beach resort. The beaches are polluted, and the hotels are mostly budget affairs of fairly low quality. Popular with the spring break crowd, party animals and Tico families, there is an assortment of noisy watering holes and bars on the strip. One redeeming factor about Jaco - it is the least expensive beach resort in Costa Rica
  6. Ocho Rios (Jamaica)
    Popular with the mainstream tourist and package tourist crowd, Ocho Rios is your quintessential middle of the road resort. It is by far, the least Jamaican of “The Big 3 Resorts” on Jamaica’s North Coast - seems more a like a mini Ft. Lauderdale transplanted to a more tropical setting. In addition, the main beach is one of the most antiseptic and sterile beaches on the island. One redeeming factor - the Hibiscus Lodge and the Jamaica Inn are two of the classiest hotels in Jamaica.

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Exploring Jamaica’s Wild South Side

Thursday, September 11th, 2008

Negril Beach, Jamaica (circa 1987)After an absence of nearly 14 years, I will be returning to JAMAICA sometime in Spring
2009. Because of I am not really fond of tourist traps, I will probably spend a minimal amount of time in the popular North Coast resort meccas of Montego Bay (somewhat honky tonk and frayed around the edges), Ocho Rios (very tropical but too fabricated) and Negril (beautiful beach, a lively reggae music scene but too much BS). Of the three resorts areas, Negril is more my cup of tea, because of the beach and the musical scene but there is a certain drawback in hanging around Negril for too long - an aura of laziness hangs in the air probably due to the copious amounts of ganja smoke being exhaled into the atmosphere.

I know you’re probably wondering where will I spend most of time in Jamaica on my next trip? I love Black River mangrovesthe rural countryside and the wild, rugged beauty of the Cockpit Country in Northwestern Jamaica as well as the small beach towns, the picturesque fishing villages and the natural beauty of Jamaica’s Southwest Coast. Although this part of Jamaica has been discovered for sometime now, the volume of tourists staying in this area is relatively light compared to the North Coast. Most of the tourists that you encounter in this area – between Savannah la Mar on the southwestern end and Treasure Beach/Milk River Bath (sort of mid center on the South Coast) - are day-trippers from the North Coast. Popular attractions in this area include the Black River Safari, an excursion by motorboat through the wild mangroves of the Black River, which at 44 miles long is Jamaica’s longest river, and the 120 foot high YS Falls, a spectacular waterfall with seven cascades located not far from the coast – unlike the overly commercialized Dunn’s River Falls near Ocho Rios, YS Falls is still relatively unspoiled and pristine.

Ys falls 2From Sav-La Mar to Treasure Beach, a distance of 50 miles and about 90 minutes by car, there are several small fishing villages/beach communities – Bluefields, Belmont and Whitehouse - where the locals far outnumber the tourists. Along the way, you’ll pass by a number of small roadside cafes that specialize in roasted breadfruit and Bammie with Fish, a popular Jamaican dish consisting of spicy fried fish and roasted cassava. If there is anything that remotely resembles a resort area, it has to be the small tourist enclave near Treasure Beach, where there are a handful of hotels, villas, beach cottages, inexpensive guesthouses and quaint hillside villa resorts. In Spring 1995, I stayed at the venerable Treasure Beach Hotel, the oldest hotel in the area - since that time, it has expanded to 38 rooms which also makes it the largest hotel in Treasure Beach as well. A relative newcomer to the scene is Jake’s - a rustic and hip bungalow style resort consisting of only 12 units. The long brown sand beach here is pretty nice but pales in comparison to the spectacular white sand beaches of Negril.

Jamaica's South Coast 2Other recent developments include the new Sandals Resort, a sprawling 258-room all-inclusive resort, which opened up in 2001. Located near the village of Whitehouse (just west of the town of Black River), this new Mediterranean style resort is situated on its own private white sand beach and like all Sandals properties, it is “a couples only resort”. I understand that it has been well received by oversea tourists and it is currently one of the most popular Sandals resorts. Thank G_d, the South Coast has been spared any further major development as that would spoil the beauty and character of the area as well as disrupting the traditional lifestyle and culture of the local populace.

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RETURN TO JAMAICA

Tuesday, September 9th, 2008

YS fallsMany people don’t believe me when I tell them that I have been to Jamaica over 30 times. It is true - all you have to do is look at my passport. What is even more astounding is that all my trips to JA took place over a 16-year interval, from 1980-1995 and since Spring 1995, I have not been back. I know what you may be thinking – No, I am not Jamaican, although I’ve been told even with my fair complexion, I could pass. Jamaican girlfriend??? No, I never had a romantic liaison with a lady in Jamaica, although there have been a number of gals that I took a fancy to. Still the question remains - Why did I make so many trips to Jamaica? What is the real story?

All my many trips to Jamaica took place from 1980-1995 for a reason - as a travel agent and tour operator, JAMAICA used to be my bread and butter (my primary destination), and I had a steady flow of clients who traveled to Jamaica for vacation (both tourists and Jamaicans). It was during these years, that I escorted large tour groups every year for the famous Summer Musical festival in Montego Bay known as REGGAE SUNSPLASH. Coincidentally, Reggae Sunsplash sort of fizzled out in the mid 1990s to be replaced by Reggae Sumfest at the same time I disappeared from the Jamaica scene.

Will I return to Jamaica? You betcha – After an absence of nearly 14 years, I am planning to Return to Jamaica, some day soon. It will be a homecoming of sorts for me, as in many circles I am considered an honorary Jamaican. I have some absolutely wonderful memories and experiences in “the land of wood and water” - for a small island, there is so much natural beauty packed into her physical boundaries. I know that there will have been many changes and much new development will have taken place, but that it is to be expected. One thing I know that will not have changed and that is the exuberant, spirited nature of the Jamaican People. To be continued…

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An oasis of greenery in Bangkok

Tuesday, September 2nd, 2008

atkhruwan1Not too long ago, I heard about this middle-aged schoolteacher by the name of Khru Waan who maintained a 2 acre garden in the Yannawa district of Bangkok, about 20 kilometers from the center of the city. She had become a quasi-celebrity of sorts, as she was the subject of a featured story on a local TV program and the Royal Family had officially recognized her efforts towards conservation. According to many people, her plot of land is considered a genuine oasis as it represented the last vestige of greenery in Greater Bangkok, excluding the public parks of course.

As someone who loves plants, flowers and all things green, I decided to pay Khru Waan a visit. Her garden is slightly over two acres and is surrounded by skyscrapers and other manifestations of urbanization. She teaches music at a nearby school and her garden has become a playground for children living in the community, as their homes do not have much space. Fortunately the children were absent on the day I visited Khru Waan - that was fine by me as I truly enjoyed the peace and quiet.

Talking to this lady, I was impressed by her integrity and her desire to hold on to the land despite mounting pressures from the outside. Apparently some land developerfriend_kruwan1 recently offered to buy her land for 400 million baht (1.76 million in US dollars), but Khru Waan held her ground and refused the offer. Another thing that troubled her was the polluted water that was coming into her land via a nearby drainage ditch; it seems that the people in the surrounding community throw garbage into the ditch. She has complained to the local authorities but they are cannot do anything about the situation. One thing that she can do now is to plant more trees along the ditch in order to hide the filth and ugliness.

Khru Waan and her family do not have plans to sell the land anytime soon. However when she passes on, the land will revert to her nieces and nephews. I am wondering how long they will honor their ancestor’s wishes before they succumb to the enormous amount of monies being offered to them by real estate speculators and land developers. Unfortunately this is the way of the world. Let’s hope for the best.

Over the years, I have seen Bangkok become a sprawling Concrete Jungle gobbling up the landscape with modern office complexes and highrise buildings. However, thank G_D there are people like Khru Waan who are trying before to preserve this Green Earth

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