Archive for June, 2006

One night in Bangkok…

Thursday, June 15th, 2006

Soi COwboyWhen I go to Thailand, I tend to do a lot more drinking and cavorting than I do at home. After all I am on vacation (or at least I’m on a working vacation). Truth be told when I’m at home, I’m a virtual teetotaler. In Bangkok, sometimes after having a dinner, I like to stop at one of the outdoor bars along the Sukhumvit or near Washington Square and have a drink or two before I head back to my hotel. I’m not much of a beer drinker, although I do admit that Singha beer is pretty good as far as beers go, Leo goes down smooth and Chang has somewhat of malty taste, and with it’s higher alcoholic content has quite a kick. In fact if I want to go to sleep, drinking one large bottle of Chang definitely will knock me out. More effective than a sleeping pill, that’s for sure.

Like I said, as I’m not really a beer drinker, I usually will opt for something simple like a ‘rum and Street vendorcoke’ as my nightcap. Sometimes it can get very frustrating going to a Thai bar and trying to order this traditional mixed drink as most of the bartendresses have difficulty understanding what I’m talking about. On many occasions, the cocktail waitress will bring me just a bottle of coke and glass with ice and I will end up shaking my head in frustration, looking into the puzzled girl’s face and asking her ‘but where’s the rum?” Obviously, there’s language barrier at work here as rum and coke does not compute in their language. Now, if I were to say Ba Car Dee coke with the emphasis on the 2nd syllable in Bacardi, that usually does the trick; then the bartendress or cocktail waitress knows exactly what I want. If push comes to shove, I point to the bottle of Bacardi behind the bar. This little scenario usually results in laughs and smiles on both sides.

Now, rum and coke at a decent outdoor bar along the Sukhumvit will cost about 100 baht (2.50USD). I remember on one occasion, I went out for drinks (and to sample some local color) on a hot sweltering night in Bangkok at about 12 midnight. Stopping at an outdoor bar along the Sukhumvit, I was immediately greeted by a bevy of lovely young Isaan bargirls smiling at me. Taking a seat at one of the tables, I looked up at the chalkboard behind the bar and saw that they were running a special for Mekong Cola for only 40 baht. For those of don’t know, Mekong is a very powerful local Thai whiskey. Doing some quick arithmetic in my head - the Mekong cola at 40 baht was 6o baht cheaper than rum and coke, so I said to myself why not play the role of frugal tourist tonite? One of the gals Bangkok at nightproceeded to join me at the table plopping herself on my lap and I proceeded to order a Mekong cola for me and my newfound friend. Drinking a Mekong cola with Morlam music blaring in the background and a beautiful Thai lady on my lap, I was having a wonderful time. I was thinking to myself, the Mekong Cola did not taste that much different than rum and coke (must be the coke). Finishing my cocktail, I ordered another round. After downing my second dose , as it was getting past the witching hour, I decided to head back to my hotel to get some shuteye much to the chagrin of the young bargirl who obviously liked my company.

Next morning, I woke you with a headache that wouldn’t quit. It felt like someone had kicked me in the head. It wasn’t until later in the day after I ran my customary 5 miles and worked out in the gym, did the headache go away. Well, I definitely learned my lesson from the prior night’s escapade. No more Mekong Cola for me!. Local Thai whiskey is some toxic stuff! From now on, I would pay an extra 60 baht to have my customary rum and coke, excuse me Ba Car Dee coke. One night in Bangkok, will definitely make a poor man humble especially if you’ve been drinking Mekong Cola!

Sphere: Related Content

Buffalo Burgers anybody?

Wednesday, June 14th, 2006

Water buffaloThai kidsWater buffalo closeup

I encountered this fierce looking Water Buffalo in Khao Soi Dow Wildlife Sanctuary in eastern Thailand. I don’t know how tame or domesticated this creature was, but I dared not get within 8 meters of him as it appeared he was ready to charge at me. Traditionally, Water buffaloes are revered animals in Thai culture as they have played a very prominent role in the cultivation of rice paddies in the lowlands of rural Thailand. I have heard many Isaan gals in Bangkok tell me stories about their Water Buffalo back on their farm in Isaan country (Northeastern Thailand).

Before the onset of the rainy season, the water buffalo and the farmer work long hours plowing and tilling the paddy field, getting it ready for the planting of rice. After the planting is finished, these workhouse animals are used to haul heavy loads in the village and also for sport. In the last 20 years or so, these noble farm animals have been displaced from the work force by the increasing reliance on agricultural machinery and modern technology in rural Thailand. Replaced by “mechanical buffalo”, the water buffaloes fell victim to the growing demand for beef in the swelling urban centers. An increasing number of them have been rounded up in recent years and sent off to the slaughterhouse to meet this demand.

No doubt, the introduction of Western food chains like McDonalds have accelerated the demise of the water buffalo as fast food restaurants have become increasingly popular in major Thai cities. Essentially, this is an example of how Western culture has corrupted traditional Eastern cultures. Call it Globalization if you may but in any case the overall numbers of the Water Buffalo have dropped precipitously, from over 6 million in 1981 to almost 1 million as of today. Buffalo burgers anybody?

Sphere: Related Content

My experiences flying to Thailand

Tuesday, June 13th, 2006

CloudsAs stated in my prior post, I have flown six times to Thailand over the last five years. I’ve definitely had a mixed bag of experiences - the good, the bad and the ugly - and I’ve learned to put a premium on onboard comfort even if it costs extra monies.

Well on my first trip in 2001, I flew on Japan Airlines with a connection in Tokyo. Never again - they packed their passengers in like sardines, ambiance was very sterile and the seats were hard as a board. Except for a brief 3-4 hours where I actually fell asleep, I remember squirming and twisting in my seat the entire flight to Tokyo. When I arrived in Thailand, my whole body was aching; it felt like somebody put me in a torture rack.Total damage was about $750USD

The next thee trips to Thailand, I flew on Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong. Definitely an upgrade from Japan Airlines, the service was efficient and the onboard ambiance was considerably better with a blue and crème-white themed décor. While the seats were slightly more comfortable than JAL, the legroom was about the same. Very cramped. Fortunately, I was able to get a real deal on Cathay Pacific’s special of the month on two of the thee trips. I paid about $600USD RT including tax.

On my fifth trip to Thailand, I flew on Northwest Airlines (an American Flag carrier) via Tokyo. Photogenic babeWhat a difference! The service was superior, legroom was good and the leather seats were oh so comfortable. While I didn’t feel like a million bucks when I arrived in Bangkok, I felt a helluva lot fresher than I did on my four prior trips. In addition, the food was the best I’ve had in recent memory as far as airline meals go. The only real downside was the return flight from Bangkok to San Francisco via Tokyo left at 6:00AM in the morning. Uggh, that meant I had to get up at 3:00AM in the morning to catch a taxi to the airport. Total cost including tax on NW was $913USD.

Bkk air tratOn my last trip, I decided to fly on EVA, a Taiwanese carrier. Paying about $200 extra above the normal economy fare for an upgrade to deluxe economy (Evergreen class), it was definitely worth the extra expenditure. The leg room was outstanding but the seats were very old and needed reupholstering, the ambiance was very whimsical with a colorful tropical and nautical theme. Total damage for this flight was about $1050USD.

Bottom line - on such a long haul, I really put a premium on onboard comfort. I would rather pay $200-300 more than the least expensive fare in economy class in order to fly there with some degree of comfort. Believe me, the extra expense is definitely worth it!

Sphere: Related Content

Finding the right airlines…

Monday, June 12th, 2006

On a long haul to BangkokFinding the right airlines for your long overseas trip to Southeast Asia, Africa or Europe is more than just finding the cheapest airfare. Among other important factors are airline safety records, the total amount of time in the air, the relatively degree of onboard comfort and if there is a connection involved, the layover time between flights.

Having flown to Thailand six times from San Francisco in the past 5 years, I definitely have experience in long haul flights. The total flight time from San Francisco is at least 17 hours to Thailand and the time difference is 14-15 hours (Thailand is ahead of us). I really put a high premium on onboard comfort as a key factor when choosing airlines. From my experience, Asian carriers cram as many seats as possible in the coach compartment; as a result legroom is minimal. If you’re taller than 5’10”, you’ll definitely feel squashed. Hint - American flag carriers, in general, have better than average legroom and more comfortable seats.

Periodically the airlines do have some fantastic sales to Thailand, so you’ll have to keep a vigilant watch, as sometimes fares are known to dip to about $600 on legitimate 4 and 5 star airlines like Cathay Pacific. Just be mindful, that if you’re flying on an Asian carrier, legroom and overall seat comfort can be relatively poor. Another thing when scouring the airlines for specials, is to beware of overly long connections between flights; sometimes in order to get a ridiculously inexpensive airfare, you will have a layover between 4-12 hours (or more). Worse yet are routings which involve more than one connection or those that take you all over the world before you arrive at your destination Another very important consideration - stay with major, brand name airlines with proven safety records. By all means, you want to avoid flying on airlines with names like Taliban Airways which use old refurbished WWII aircraft and have connections in places like Kabul, Kosovo or Timbuktu, no matter what the cost. You may want to utilize an airline rating service like Skytrax to help determine which airlines to choose from.

Coming up in my next installment ia a cursory review of all the flights that I have taken to the Land of Smiles!

Sphere: Related Content

Plant of the week - Seaside Bean

Friday, June 9th, 2006

Seaside BeanWorldwide in distribution, the seaside bean (Canavalia rosea) is a very prolific herbaceous vine found along beach dunes on seashores in the tropics and subtropics. Belonging to the Bean family (Leguminosae) this plant is used to control soil erosion in many parts of the world. I photographed this particular specimen on Barclay’s Park, a popular beach resort and picnic area on Barbados’s North Atlantic Coast. Other names for this plant are beach bean, coastal jackbean and Mackenzie bean.

Sphere: Related Content

Flying Fish anybody?

Thursday, June 8th, 2006

welcome to barbadosThe Dorado (in Barbados, more commonly known as Flying Fish) has had a long storied history in Bajan Culture. This fish is symbolic of Barbados’s very close relationship with the sea for its sustenance and economic well-being. The flying fish (Dorado) is one of the most abundant species of fish caught in Barbados’s Caribbean waters and for many generations, Bajan fisherman have been catching this fish to feed their families and as a source of income. In Barbados, many small community’s livelihood and well-being is dependant on the flying fish. No wonder that this revered fish is considered a national icon!. The image of the flying fish can be found on the back of Bajan dollar coins and one of the most popular indigenous dishes is fried or grilled flying fish with pepper sauce, callaloo and rice; it’s supposed to be very tasty. Walking into the tourist office in downtown Bridgetown, a beautiful framed print of the flying fish against the backdrop of one of the Caribbean beaches is mounted on the wall above the information counter. At one time, the Barbados Tourist Board used this print on the cover of all their tourist literature. Flying fish anybody? Bim, Let’s head to Barbados!
.

Sphere: Related Content

Isn’t that an Armadillo?

Wednesday, June 7th, 2006

Most people traveling to Costa Rica will take a tour of the rainforest, stay in a nature lodge or beach resort howler monkeysurrounded by the tropical forest; there are a number of relatively large mammals that you will likely encounter - howler monkeys, coatis, sloths and armadillos. First and foremost is the Howler Monkey, a very large and vociferous monkey that is especially active during the early morning and late afternoon hours. As the troop moves through their territory, swinging from tree to tree unseen by untrained eyes, the males of the troop make a very loud whooping noise somewhat like a barking dog to warn neighboring troops to stay out of their turf. The howler monkeys are very common throughout Costa Rica. Even though, you may never see them, you will definitely be awakened from your slumber by their booming voices just before sunrise. Coati

Following the Howler monkey in terms of visibility, is the Coati or affectionately known at ecotourist resorts as ‘the Costa Rican Squirrel”. The Coati is the tropical relative of our raccoon and they are often seen in many of the resort areas in the mountains. They’re especially abundant and quite easily observed in the area around Arenal National Park. On at least one occasion, I saw a whole Coati family consisting of the mother and at least 10 juveniles trying to cross the highway near Nuevo Arenal. The Coatis are very bold creatures; they have been known to approach tourists for handouts.

Sloth in treeAnother very common mammal to watch out for is the Sloth, tree dwelling relatives of the anteaters. They are very slow moving creatures, who spend most of their lives hanging upside down from the branch of a tree high up in the forest canopy, munching on leaves and defecating (taking a dump). One of the best places to observe these unusual creatures is at the park in downtown Limon, the largest city on Costa Rica’s Caribbean Coast.

On my last trip to Costa Rica back in February 05, I happened to encounter an Armadillo while visiting Sueno Azul, an upscale nature resort located near Sarapiqui in the Caribbean lowlands. Armadillos are strange looking, ground dwelling mammals whose body is covered with a plate of armor. Believe it or not, they are closely related to the armadillosloths and anteaters. These mammals belong to the Order Edentata; in tropical America, these edentates are specialized to eat ants and termites and in the case of sloths, eat leaves high up in the forest canopy. In Costa Rica, there are two species of Armadillos, the Naked Tailed and Nine Banded Armadillo. The Naked tailed species is nocturnal so the critter I saw was obviously the Nine Banded variety. The little fellow was scurrying about the hotel grounds looking for a meal; as an omnivore, this species diet consists of a variety of insects including ants and termites, small animals and various plant parts. Cute little creature, isn’t he?

Sphere: Related Content

The Royal Flora Ratchaphreuk 2006

Tuesday, June 6th, 2006

If you’re a lover of tropical plants and flowers, a horticultural enthusiast or a landscape designer, you’ll definitely Golden showerwant to consider traveling to Thailand for the upcoming Royal Flora International Horticultural Exposition. Officially, this event is known as the Royal Flora Ratchaphreuk 2006; Ratchaphreuk refers to the Golden Shower Tree (Cassia Fistula), which is one of the nine auspicious trees in Thai culture and folklore. Taking place at the Royal Agricultural Research Center in Chiang Mai from November 1, 2006 to January 31, 2007, this international horticultural extravaganza will commemorate the 60th anniversary of King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s accession to the throne and his 80th birthday. Featuring over 2,200 species of tropical flowers and plants on display (and over 2.5 million plants and flowers in all), there will be specialized exhibitions, competitions, conferences, workshops and seminars in addition to a huge marketplace for plants and flowers, souvenirs and traditional handicrafts. Blending in with the mountainous landscape, over 30 International and 80 Thai gardens featuring plants and flowers from Thailand will dazzle you with their breathtaking design and beauty. If you’re an orchid or Poysean (Euphorbia milli) enthusiast, there are bound to be many exhibits at the Royal Flora Expo that will be of interest to you. As Thailand is a leader in the cultivation of new cultivars and hybrids of Poysean (or more commonly known as Crown of Thorns), I know that some of the primary growers of this exotic Poysean closeupEuphorbia will make their presence known. For more news on this event, stay tuned!

If you’re interested in attending the Royal Flora Expo, Calypso Island Tours is offering five mini-group departures for a special 8-day/7-night package that feature four nights in Chiang Mai for the Expo. By all means, check it out!

Sphere: Related Content

Tin Jo - Asia in San Jose, Costa Rica

Saturday, June 3rd, 2006

As a health conscious vegetarian, sometimes it’s difficult finding a decent restaurant for dinner when I’m traveling abroad. In Costa Rica, one of my favorite destinations, I have seen a number of my preferred dining spots in San Jose ( the capital city) disappear over the years including the Macrobiotic Restaurant and Mordisco. In particular, the Macrobiotic restaurant, situated in an old colonial house in the downtown area, was one of the best gourmet vegetarian restaurants that I have ever been to. The food was very delicious, all the produce was organic and it was moderately priced. Too bad, they closed their doors sometime in the early 1990s.

On my last couple of visits to San Jose, Costa Rica, I sampled a number of Chinese restaurants; the food at best was mediocre. In general, the menu choices were limited to such mundane Chinese dishes like chop suey, chow mein, wonton soup, chicken fried rice and in general the entrees were overloaded with salt and oil. Totally Chinese greasy spoon! Well on my last trip to San Jose, in February 2005, I did a little research in advance on the Internet for vegetarian restaurants in San Jose. I believe it was on the Happy Cow website, that I discovered Tin Jo, a pan Asian restaurant in downtown San José that offered both vegan and vegetarian dishes on their very diverse menu which features dishes from China, Thailand, India, Japan and Indonesia. I believe one of the owners is a transplanted Thai lady.

On the three nights that I went for dinner in San Jose, I ended up at Tin Jo and on all three nights the place was packed with mix of Josefinas and gringos. Believe it or not, on two of the three nights, there was a waiting list for an available table. This popular restaurant is located in the middle of one of San José’s many red light districts; the neighborhood sort of reminded me of the Tenderloin district in San Francisco. The restaurant, moderately large in size with separate smoking and nonsmoking sections, had a colorful, somewhat eclectic Asian ambiance with Chinese vases and various Buddha and dragon statutes scattered around the place. While definitely not quite gourmet, I found the food to be fairly tasty and healthfully prepared (and I definitely was able to get my tofu fix). Prices were moderate for the San Jose area and about 20-25% less than a comparable Asian restaurant in the San Francisco Bay Area. The fact that I ate at Tin Jo every night while in San José has to tell you something….Pura Vida!

Factoid - Josefinas is a colloquial term for residents of San Jose, Costa Rica

Sphere: Related Content

Plant of the Week- the Lollypop Plant

Friday, June 2nd, 2006

lollypop plantI have seen this attractive, unusual looking plant at a variety of tropical locales including Barbados, Costa Rica and Thailand. Native to Peru, the lollypop plant (Pachystachys lutea) is a popular ornamental plant in tropical gardens. Belonging to the Acanthaceae family, the plant has delicate white flowers, which emerge from golden yellow scale-like bracts. The most beautiful specimen I found was in the magnificent rainforest gardens at the Casuarina Beach Club in Barbados. This small tropical evergreen shrub is also known as the golden candle or shrimp plant

Sphere: Related Content